The World Table

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Alaska · Dessert

Alaska Rhubarb Upside-Down Cake

  • Intermediate
  • 80 min
  • roughly 2 of 4 for cost
  • Vegetarian

rich · sweet-edged · floral Leads with richness that coats and comforts, a sweet edge rounding the corners, leaving a faint perfume.

Ingredients

  • FOR THE TOPPING
  • 85g butter
  • 200g brown sugar
  • 600g rhubarb, cut in 3cm lengths
  • FOR THE CAKE
  • 250g flour
  • 2 tsp baking powder
  • 1/2 tsp salt
  • 115g butter
  • 200g sugar
  • 2 eggs
  • 1 tsp vanilla
  • 180ml milk

The skills inside

Sugar stages & caramelCreaming butter & sugarThe wobble & the skewer: testing a bake

The words inside

Rhubarb

Allergen screen

Found: gluten · dairy · egg

Screened for: gluten, dairy, egg, nuts, peanuts, fish, shellfish, molluscs, soy, sesame, celery, mustard, lupin, alcohol. Not screened: sulphites.

Screened by keyword from the ingredient list, not reviewed by a person; check every label for what the list cannot show.

Method

  1. Melt the butter in a 23cm cake pan, stir in the brown sugar, and spread it over the base.
  2. Arrange the rhubarb tightly over the sugar in a single close layer: it shrinks considerably as it bakes.
  3. Cream the butter and sugar, beat in the eggs and vanilla, then alternate the dry ingredients with the milk.
  4. Spread the batter over the rhubarb and bake at 175C for 45-55 min until a skewer comes clean. 55 min
  5. Rest exactly 5 min, then invert onto a plate. Wait longer and the caramel welds to the pan. 5 min

How to tell it is going right

This dish has no standard of its own yet. It is judged on the techniques it exercises: checked at the pan, while there is still something to be done about it.

Creaming butter & sugar 28 recipes

  • The butter started at the right temperature: it took a fingerprint and held its shape, neither greasy and slumping nor hard from the fridge.
  • It has visibly paled, from yellow towards near-white, and grown in volume, and getting there took minutes rather than seconds.
  • The texture is light and aerated: a spoonful is fluffy and holds a soft peak rather than sitting dense on the spoon.
  • Rubbed between finger and thumb it is still faintly gritty with undissolved sugar, and not slick or oily.
  • It is one homogeneous cream: not split, slackened, or separating into a greasy mass with liquid running out of it.

Where it goes wrong The butter was too warm, or it was beaten well past its point, so the fat softened and gave up the air it had taken: the mixture goes slack and oily and the cake bakes dense and greasy with a sunken middle.

Sugar stages & caramel 53 recipes

  • Nothing is stirred once it is boiling, and any crystals clinging to the side of the pan are brushed down rather than left to fall in.
  • Judged by temperature or by a tested stage rather than by time: consecutive stages are a few degrees apart and look identical in the pan.
  • Colour is read off the heat and in good light, remembering that sugar keeps darkening after the flame is out.
  • Stopped decisively at the point wanted: off the heat and into the next liquid or onto a cold surface, rather than left to coast in a hot pan.
  • The result is clear and smooth rather than grainy, cloudy, or seized into a solid mass.

Where it goes wrong It was stirred after coming to the boil, or a stray crystal from the side of the pan fell back in. One crystal seeds the whole pan and the syrup turns grainy within seconds, and once sugar has crystallised the only cure is more water and starting the whole thing again.

At the Table

The Pour
Tawny Port
Also Right
PX Sherry or bourbon
From the Taps
Barleywine
Zero-Proof
Cold-brew coffee

Caramel echoing caramel: oxidative aging built the same flavors into the glass that the pan built into the plate.

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Film school

This dish, cooked on camera Search films of Alaska Rhubarb Upside-Down Cake Technique: Sugar stages & caramelThe skill inside this recipe Search YouTube: J. Kenji López-Alt on Alaska Rhubarb Upside-Down Cake A YouTube search for J. Kenji López-Alt and this dish. No affiliation.