The World Table

An interactive culinary compendium: recipes, lexicon and study

Nigerian · Side

Amala

  • Intermediate
  • 15 min
  • roughly 1 of 4 for cost
  • Vegetarian
  • Vegan

clean · simple A quiet dish that lets its main ingredient speak: season well and stand aside.

Ingredients

  • 200 g elubo, dark yam flour
  • 700 ml water

The skills inside

Kneading doughSalted water & the float test

Allergen screen

Found: gluten

Screened for: gluten, dairy, egg, nuts, peanuts, fish, shellfish, molluscs, soy, sesame, celery, mustard, lupin, alcohol. Not screened: sulphites.

Screened by keyword from the ingredient list, not reviewed by a person; check every label for what the list cannot show.

Method

  1. Bring 500 ml of the water to a rolling boil in a heavy pot and keep the rest hot in a jug.
  2. Rain the elubo in through your fingers in a thin veil, stirring hard with a flat wooden turner the whole time so nothing settles in a heap.
  3. Work the paste against the side of the pot, crushing every lump you find, until it pulls away from the base in one mass and turns from beige to dark chocolate.
  4. Splash in a little of the reserved hot water, cover, and stand it off the heat for two minutes.
  5. Beat again until smooth and elastic, then turn it into a bowl and swirl it round to give a domed, glossy surface.

How to tell it is going right

This dish has no standard of its own yet. It is judged on the techniques it exercises: checked at the pan, while there is still something to be done about it.

Kneading dough 57 recipes

  • The work changed it: what began shaggy and rough is one smooth, cohesive mass, with nothing raggy hanging off it.
  • The surface has gone satin and barely tacky, releasing cleanly from hands and board instead of leaving a trail.
  • Worked to the point this dough asks for and no further: springy and elastic where structure is wanted, just brought together where tenderness is.
  • Torn or cut open, the inside is uniform: no dry streaks, no unmixed pockets, no core of flour that never met the water.
  • After its rest it rolls and shapes without snapping back. A dough that fights the pin needed more rest, not more force.

Where it goes wrong Sticking was fought with flour instead of technique or patience, stroke after stroke, until the dough had taken in far more than the formula asked; it turns tight and dry under the hands, and bakes dense however well everything else goes.

Salted water & the float test 188 recipes

  • The water was salted before anything went in, and tasting it confirms it: seasoned on the tongue, with the salt dissolved rather than sitting on the pot floor.
  • There is enough water, hot enough, that the pot returns to its boil quickly after the food goes in and never stops moving.
  • Where the dish uses the float as its signal, the signal is obeyed: the pieces rise and they come out then, not several minutes later once something else was finished.
  • Nothing is stuck to the bottom of the pot or welded to itself, and the water has not thickened into a cloudy sludge.
  • Drained on a bite rather than on the clock: resistance at the centre, with no chalky raw core.

Where it goes wrong The pot was too small and the water unsalted, so it never recovered its boil: the food sat in slack water, went gummy at the surface, and comes out bland in a way that no sauce afterwards can fix.

At the Table

The Pour
Grüner Veltliner
Also Right
Vermentino or dry Chenin
From the Taps
Saison
Zero-Proof
Sparkling water with citrus & herbs

The vegetable whisperers: peppery, high-acid whites that flatter greens, roots, and grains without bullying them.

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Film school

This dish, cooked on camera Search films of Amala The cuisine, deeper Technique films from the Nigerian kitchen