The World Table

An interactive culinary compendium: recipes, lexicon and study

West Virginia · Sauce

Apple Butter

  • Intermediate
  • 6 h
  • roughly 2 of 4 for cost
  • Vegetarian
  • Vegan

warm-spiced · bright · rich · sweet-edged Leads with warm spice humming through the middle, acid holding everything up to the light, trailing gentle sweetness.

Ingredients

  • 4kg apples, quartered, cores in
  • 1L apple cider
  • 400g brown sugar
  • 2 tbsp cinnamon
  • 1 tsp cloves
  • 1 tsp allspice
  • 1/2 tsp salt
  • 2 tbsp cider vinegar

The skills inside

Mashing & puréeing

The words inside

Sieves: Chinois, Tamis & Food Mill

Allergen screen

None found among the 14 screened.

Screened for: gluten, dairy, egg, nuts, peanuts, fish, shellfish, molluscs, soy, sesame, celery, mustard, lupin, alcohol. Not screened: sulphites.

Screened by keyword from the ingredient list, not reviewed by a person; check every label for what the list cannot show.

Method

  1. Simmer the apples in the cider 45 min until completely soft, then pass through a food mill: the cores and skins give pectin and go in the mill, not the bin. 45 min
  2. Return the puree to a heavy pot with the sugar, spices, salt, and vinegar.
  3. Cook over the lowest heat 4-5 hours, stirring often as it thickens and darkens. A spatter screen saves your arms. 300 min
  4. It is done when a spoonful mounded on a cold plate weeps no liquid at the edges.
  5. Jar hot and seal, or refrigerate for a month.

How to tell it is going right

This dish has no standard of its own yet. It is judged on the technique it exercises: checked at the pan, while there is still something to be done about it.

Mashing & puréeing 114 recipes

  • Smooth to the degree the dish asks for, judged on the tongue rather than by eye: no lumps, no fibres, no grit, unless texture is the point.
  • No gluey elasticity: a spoonful drops cleanly off the spoon rather than stretching in a rope behind it.
  • The consistency holds: it mounds on a spoon and stays there, neither slumping flat nor standing so stiff that a spoon has to cut it.
  • Nothing separates on the plate: no water or fat weeping out into a ring within a minute of serving.
  • The colour is even throughout, with no streaks of unincorporated fat, liquid, or seasoning at the edges of the bowl.

Where it goes wrong A starchy ingredient met a high-speed blade, so the cells burst and released their starch: what should be light comes out as an elastic glue that lifts off the spoon in one mass.

At the Table

The Pour
Grüner Veltliner
Also Right
Vermentino or dry Chenin
From the Taps
Saison
Zero-Proof
Sparkling water with citrus & herbs

The vegetable whisperers: peppery, high-acid whites that flatter greens, roots, and grains without bullying them.

Saved on this device and kept across visits: export from My Menu to move them.

Film school

This dish, cooked on camera Search films of Apple Butter Search YouTube: J. Kenji López-Alt on Apple Butter A YouTube search for J. Kenji López-Alt and this dish. No affiliation.