The World Table

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Arizona · Starter

Arizona Cheese Crisp

  • Easy
  • 20 min
  • roughly 2 of 4 for cost
  • Vegetarian

rich · gently hot · sweet-edged · herb-fresh Leads with richness that coats and comforts, a warm current of chile, lifted green at the very end.

Ingredients

  • 4 large flour tortillas
  • 300g Monterey Jack or longhorn cheddar, grated
  • 2 tbsp butter, melted
  • Chopped green chile (optional)
  • Salsa to serve

Equipment

Grater / zester

The skills inside

Tortillas on the comal

Allergen screen

Found: gluten · dairy

Screened for: gluten, dairy, egg, nuts, peanuts, fish, shellfish, molluscs, soy, sesame, celery, mustard, lupin, alcohol. Not screened: sulphites.

Screened by keyword from the ingredient list, not reviewed by a person; check every label for what the list cannot show.

Method

  1. Brush a large flour tortilla lightly with melted butter.
  2. Lay it flat on a hot comal or in the oven and scatter cheese right to the edges.
  3. Add green chile if using.
  4. Cook until the tortilla is crisp and browned and the cheese is bubbling and lacy at the edge.
  5. Cut into wedges and serve flat with salsa.

How to tell it is going right

This dish has no standard of its own yet. It is judged on the technique it exercises: checked at the pan, while there is still something to be done about it.

Tortillas on the comal 27 recipes

  • It puffs. On the second turn the tortilla lifts into a dome as the trapped water flashes to steam and splits the two faces apart; a tortilla that never puffs was pressed too thick, cooked too cool, or turned too often.
  • Freckled, not blackened: small brown spots across a pale field. An evenly browned tortilla has been on too long and will be a cracker by the time it reaches the table.
  • It folds without cracking while warm, and still folds after five minutes under a cloth. A tortilla that splits along the fold has lost too much water on the comal.
  • The edges are unbroken and roughly round, with no ragged fringe: a fringed edge means the masa was too dry when it was pressed, and no amount of heat will fix it afterwards.
  • It smells of toasted corn rather than of scorch or of raw lime. Raw lime means the nixtamal was under-rinsed; scorch means the comal was above the working heat.

Where it goes wrong The masa was too dry or the comal too cool. A dry masa cracks at the edge on pressing and cannot generate the steam that puffs it; a cool comal dries the tortilla through before the water can flash, so it leaves the heat stiff, pale and already stale.

At the Table

The Pour
Alpine white (dry Riesling, Grüner)
Also Right
Champagne: bubbles scrub richness
From the Taps
Bière de garde
Zero-Proof
Sparkling apple

Melted cheese coats; acid and carbonation scrub: high-cut whites and Champagne keep the fondue from winning.

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Film school

This dish, cooked on camera Search films of Arizona Cheese Crisp Technique: Tortillas on the comalThe skill inside this recipe Search YouTube: J. Kenji López-Alt on Arizona Cheese Crisp A YouTube search for J. Kenji López-Alt and this dish. No affiliation.