The World Table

An interactive culinary compendium: recipes, lexicon and study

Ethiopian · Side

Ayib

  • Easy
  • 20 min
  • roughly 1 of 4 for cost
  • Vegetarian

silky · warm-spiced Leads with a silken, spoon-slow texture, warm spice humming through the middle.

Ingredients

  • 2 litres whole milk, not ultra pasteurised
  • 200 g live plain yoghurt
  • 5 g dried koseret, crumbled, optional
  • 2 g salt, optional

The skills inside

FermentationStraining & passing through a sieve

Allergen screen

Found: dairy

Screened for: gluten, dairy, egg, nuts, peanuts, fish, shellfish, molluscs, soy, sesame, celery, mustard, lupin, alcohol. Not screened: sulphites.

Screened by keyword from the ingredient list, not reviewed by a person; check every label for what the list cannot show.

Method

  1. Warm the milk to 40C (104 F), whisk in the yoghurt, cover, and hold somewhere warm until it sets into a thick sour clabber that shears cleanly off a spoon, about 24 hours. 600 min
  2. Pour the soured milk into a wide pan and bring it up over the lowest heat without stirring; at 50 to 55C (122 to 131 F) soft white flakes will lift away and the whey will go clear and yellow green.
  3. Hold it there, nudging gently, until the curds gather into a single loose mass, then ladle them into a muslin lined sieve and drain until dripping stops.
  4. Rinse briefly under cold water to halt the acid, press lightly, and crumble; fork through the koseret and salt if using.

How to tell it is going right

This dish has no standard of its own yet. It is judged on the techniques it exercises: checked at the pan, while there is still something to be done about it.

Fermentation 53 recipes

  • Held somewhere with a steady temperature it can actually work at, chosen on purpose rather than wherever there happened to be room.
  • There is visible activity before it is called started: bubbles, rise, or movement in the liquid. A ferment showing nothing after its first hours is not slow, it is not going.
  • It smells clean: sour, yeasty, or alcoholic, with nothing putrid, and with nothing fuzzy or coloured growing where air meets it.
  • Everything is under the liquid or under a cover, as the method requires: nothing solid left sitting dry in the air to spoil while the rest works.
  • Judged by taste and behaviour and then STOPPED: chilled, baked, or refrigerated at the point wanted, rather than left running because the stated hours had not elapsed.

Where it goes wrong It was run on the clock in a kitchen colder or warmer than the recipe assumed. Fermentation is a rate and not a duration, so the same number of hours gives an under-developed ferment in a cold room and a slack, over-soured one in a warm one, and only tasting it would have said which.

Straining & passing through a sieve 148 recipes

  • Nothing solid got through: a finger drawn through what came out finds no fibre, seed, skin, curd, or grit.
  • Where the dish wants body it was worked through rather than left to drip, and the solids left in the mesh are spent and dry rather than still holding liquid worth having.
  • It is judged on the tongue rather than by eye: smooth, with no residual grain left behind after the mouthful has gone.
  • The mesh was fine enough for the job and held its shape, and nothing bypassed it by going over the rim.
  • The yield is close to what went in less the spent solids: not half of it abandoned in the sieve because it stopped running and nobody pushed.

Where it goes wrong It was pushed through a mesh too coarse for it, or the sieve was overloaded and slopped at the rim, so the fibres it was meant to remove are in the finished sauce and it reads grainy on the tongue.

At the Table

The Pour
Grüner Veltliner
Also Right
Vermentino or dry Chenin
From the Taps
Saison
Zero-Proof
Sparkling water with citrus & herbs

The vegetable whisperers: peppery, high-acid whites that flatter greens, roots, and grains without bullying them.

Saved on this device and kept across visits: export from My Menu to move them.

Film school

This dish, cooked on camera Search films of Ayib The cuisine, deeper Technique films from the Ethiopian kitchen