The World Table

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Portuguese · Main

Bacalhau à Brás

  • Intermediate
  • 45 min
  • roughly 2 of 4 for cost

briny · rich · herb-fresh · aromatic Leads with a briny, maritime salinity, richness that coats and comforts, opening aromatic and staying there.

Ingredients

  • 400g salt cod, soaked 24–36 h, water changed thrice, then shredded
  • 400g shoestring potato matchsticks, fried crisp (or good store-bought batata palha, Lisbon's open secret)
  • 2 onions, sliced thin; 3 garlic cloves; bay leaf
  • 6 eggs, barely beaten
  • Black olives, flat parsley, black pepper

The skills inside

Knife cuts: dice, julienne, bias

Allergen screen

Found: egg · fish

Screened for: gluten, dairy, egg, nuts, peanuts, fish, shellfish, molluscs, soy, sesame, celery, mustard, lupin, alcohol. Not screened: sulphites.

Screened by keyword from the ingredient list, not reviewed by a person; check every label for what the list cannot show.

Method

  1. Melt the onions with garlic and bay in olive oil, slow, 15 min. 15 min
  2. Cod in; toss 3–4 min until it drinks the oil. 4 min
  3. Fold in the crisp potatoes, then pour the eggs over LOW heat, folding lazily.
  4. Pull the pan off while the eggs are still glossy and creamy: they finish on the walk to the table. Olives and parsley over.

How to tell it is going right

This dish has no standard of its own yet. It is judged on the technique it exercises: checked at the pan, while there is still something to be done about it.

Knife cuts: dice, julienne, bias 150 recipes

  • Take any three pieces from anywhere in the pile: they match closely enough in every dimension that you would have to measure them to argue otherwise.
  • The cut faces are flat and clean rather than ragged or crushed; leaves and herbs are cut through, not bruised, and the board carries no dark smear where they were.
  • The stated size is the actual size, held against a rule or a known reference rather than called about right.
  • Everything in the pile is the shape that was asked for: no wedges, no half pieces, and no offcuts swept in to avoid waste.
  • They cook evenly, which is the entire point: at the end of cooking nothing is still raw and nothing has collapsed.

Where it goes wrong The knife was dull, or the vegetable was never squared off first, so the pieces vary: the small ones are mush by the time the large ones are cooked, and the dish has two textures where it wanted one.

At the Table

The Pour
Fino or Manzanilla Sherry
Also Right
Muscadet or dry Riesling
From the Taps
Pilsner
Zero-Proof
Sparkling water with lemon

Salt-cured fish wants a bone-dry, saline partner: Sherry and Atlantic whites answer the cure without fighting it.

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Film school

This dish, cooked on camera Search films of Bacalhau à Brás The cuisine, deeper Technique films from the Portuguese kitchen