The World Table

An interactive culinary compendium: recipes, lexicon and study

American · Side

Baked Mac & Cheese

  • Intermediate
  • 60 min
  • roughly 2 of 4 for cost
  • Vegetarian

rich · gently hot · warm-spiced Leads with richness that coats and comforts, a warm current of chile, fading in warm spice.

Ingredients

  • 400g elbow macaroni, cooked 2 min shy
  • 60g butter + 60g flour
  • 900ml milk, warmed
  • 400g sharp cheddar + 150g gruyère or monterey jack, grated (never pre-shredded)
  • Mustard powder, cayenne, nutmeg
  • Topping: buttered panko or more cheese

Equipment

Grater / zester

The skills inside

Reducing a sauceMaking a roux

The words inside

West Country Farmhouse CheddarMonterey Jack & Pepper Jack

Allergen screen

Found: gluten · dairy · mustard

Screened for: gluten, dairy, egg, nuts, peanuts, fish, shellfish, molluscs, soy, sesame, celery, mustard, lupin, alcohol. Not screened: sulphites.

Screened by keyword from the ingredient list, not reviewed by a person; check every label for what the list cannot show.

Method

  1. Roux 2 min; whisk in milk to a sauce that coats a spoon. 2 min
  2. Cheese in off heat, one handful at a time; season boldly.
  3. Fold in pasta; into a buttered dish; top.
  4. Bake 200°C, 20–25 min, to bronze and bubble. Rest 10. 25 min

How to tell it is going right

This dish has no standard of its own yet. It is judged on the techniques it exercises: checked at the pan, while there is still something to be done about it.

Making a roux 32 recipes

  • Taken to the stage the dish named and no further, judged against that colour (pale, blond, or brown to brick), and it got there slowly enough to have coloured evenly.
  • It is smooth and mobile: a paste with no dry pockets of flour and no lumps, loosening as it warms rather than sitting stiff in the pan.
  • The raw-flour smell has gone and been replaced by the toasted, biscuity smell of its stage, with nothing acrid behind it.
  • No black specks anywhere. One scorched fleck condemns the batch; it cannot be stirred back in and it will be tasted in the finished sauce.
  • Let down into liquid it goes smooth without lumps and thickens to the body the dish wants, leaving no floury taste on the tongue.

Where it goes wrong The heat was too high and the corners of the pan went unstirred, so it scorched at the edge; black specks run through the finished sauce and carry a bitterness that no amount of seasoning covers.

Reducing a sauce 95 recipes

  • A steady simmer with the surface moving, never a rolling boil that throws it up the sides and scorches what is left on the base.
  • Judged by behaviour rather than the clock: it coats the back of a spoon and holds a clean line when a finger is drawn through it.
  • The drop in volume is visible against the side of the pan: there is a line to see, not a guess about whether anything has happened.
  • Seasoned at the end and not the beginning, because salt concentrates at exactly the rate everything else does.
  • Nothing is catching underneath: a spoon drawn across the base comes up clean, with no browned film building where the heat is fiercest.

Where it goes wrong It was seasoned at the start and then reduced by half. The salt concentrated along with everything else, so the sauce reaches perfect body and is too salty to serve. And the only remedy is to dilute it and reduce it all over again.

At the Table

The Pour
Grüner Veltliner
Also Right
Vermentino or dry Chenin
From the Taps
Saison
Zero-Proof
Sparkling water with citrus & herbs

The vegetable whisperers: peppery, high-acid whites that flatter greens, roots, and grains without bullying them.

Saved on this device and kept across visits: export from My Menu to move them.

Film school

This dish, cooked on camera Search films of Baked Mac & Cheese Technique: Béchamel: the mother sauceThe skill inside this recipeTechnique: Reducing a sauceThe skill inside this recipe Search YouTube: America’s Test Kitchen on Baked Mac & Cheese A YouTube search for America’s Test Kitchen and this dish. No affiliation.