The World Table

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Burmese · Starter

Bu Thee Kyaw

  • Intermediate
  • 30 min
  • roughly 2 of 4 for cost
  • Vegetarian
  • Vegan

bright · sweet-edged · earthy · aromatic Leads with acid holding everything up to the light, a sweet edge rounding the corners, opening aromatic and staying there.

Ingredients

  • 400 g bottle gourd, peeled and cut in 5 mm batons
  • 120 g rice flour
  • 30 g chickpea flour
  • 3 g ground turmeric
  • 6 g salt
  • 180 ml ice cold water
  • 1 L peanut oil for frying
  • 40 ml thick tamarind water
  • 10 g palm sugar
  • 10 g garlic, crushed
  • 4 g crushed dried chilli

Equipment

Deep-fry pot

The skills inside

The coat before the fry: dredge, crumb, batterDraining fried food: a rack, never paperKnife cuts: dice, julienne, bias

Allergen screen

Found: gluten · nuts · peanuts

Screened for: gluten, dairy, egg, nuts, peanuts, fish, shellfish, molluscs, soy, sesame, celery, mustard, lupin, alcohol. Not screened: sulphites.

Screened by keyword from the ingredient list, not reviewed by a person; check every label for what the list cannot show.

Method

  1. Salt the gourd batons, leave them 10 minutes, then squeeze them firmly; the water they give up would otherwise thin the batter on contact. 10 min
  2. Whisk both flours, the turmeric and salt into the ice cold water to the thickness of pouring cream; it should sheet off a spoon leaving a thin, even film.
  3. Heat the oil to 175 C (350 F), the point where a drop of batter sinks, rises within two seconds and fizzes hard.
  4. Coat the gourd and lift out loose tangled clusters rather than single sticks; fry about four minutes, until the loud hiss falls away and they are deep gold.
  5. Drain on a rack, never on paper on a plate, and serve with the tamarind, palm sugar, garlic and chilli stirred together.

How to tell it is going right

This dish has no standard of its own yet. It is judged on the techniques it exercises: checked at the pan, while there is still something to be done about it.

Draining fried food: a rack, never paper 77 recipes

  • The rack was in place before the first thing went into the oil, not fetched afterwards while food waited in a spider over the pot.
  • It lands on a rack with air moving underneath it. Anything set down on paper or a flat plate traps its own steam against its base.
  • Salted within seconds of landing, while it is still hot enough to take seasoning.
  • A minute later the underside is still as crisp as the top: no soft flat patch where it has been sitting.
  • Nothing is stacked or piled while hot, however tempting it is to keep it together. A pile steams itself soft from the inside out.

Where it goes wrong It was drained on paper, or piled up to keep warm. Steam leaving the food has nowhere to go but back into the crust, so the underside softens within a minute: the crispness the frying just bought is gone before the plate reaches the table.

The coat before the fry: dredge, crumb, batter 80 recipes

  • The coat is continuous before it goes anywhere near the fat: held up to the light, no bare patch of food shows through anywhere, seams and thin edges included.
  • It is bonded rather than resting on top: a gentle shake sheds loose dust only, and the coat does not slide off as a sheet when the piece is handled.
  • It bubbles hard and steadily from the moment it enters the fat, and the bubbling visibly slows as it finishes; those bubbles are the surface water leaving, and a quiet entry means the fat is too cool.
  • Out and drained, it is an even gold-brown all over and it is still crisp several minutes later on a rack; a coat that softens within a minute of coming out never lost its water.
  • Broken open, there is no paste of raw flour under the crust and no hollow gap where the coat has lifted away from the food.

Where it goes wrong The fat was below temperature or the pan was crowded, so the coat drank fat instead of sealing against it: it comes out pale and heavy, greasy to the fingers, and slumps off the food as it cools.

At the Table

The Pour
Grüner Veltliner
Also Right
Vermentino or dry Chenin
From the Taps
Saison
Zero-Proof
Sparkling water with citrus & herbs

The vegetable whisperers: peppery, high-acid whites that flatter greens, roots, and grains without bullying them.

Saved on this device and kept across visits: export from My Menu to move them.

Film school

This dish, cooked on camera Search films of Bu Thee Kyaw The cuisine, deeper Technique films from the Burmese kitchen