The World Table

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Malaysian · Dessert

Cendol

  • Intermediate
  • 60 min
  • roughly 2 of 4 for cost
  • Vegetarian
  • Vegan

rich · floral · sweet-edged Leads with richness that coats and comforts, a floral thread lifting the aroma, trailing gentle sweetness.

Ingredients

  • Cendol jellies: 100g rice flour + 2 tbsp mung bean starch, 400ml pandan juice (blitz 10 leaves with water, strain), pinch salt
  • Gula melaka syrup: 200g palm sugar + 100ml water + 1 pandan leaf, melted to dark silk
  • 400ml thick coconut milk, pinch of salt
  • Shaved ice, a mountain of it
  • Sweetened red beans or creamed corn, the traditional reinforcements

The skills inside

Blanching & shockingMashing & puréeing

The words inside

PolentaMung Bean

Allergen screen

Found: gluten

Screened for: gluten, dairy, egg, nuts, peanuts, fish, shellfish, molluscs, soy, sesame, celery, mustard, lupin, alcohol. Not screened: sulphites.

Screened by keyword from the ingredient list, not reviewed by a person; check every label for what the list cannot show.

Method

  1. Cook the pandan batter, stirring hard, until thick and glossy like green polenta, 5–6 min. 6 min
  2. Press through a colander with large holes (or a cendol press) directly into iced water; worms of green jelly form and set.
  3. Melt the gula melaka to a dark syrup; salt the coconut milk lightly.
  4. Tall glass: jellies, beans, ice mountain, coconut milk flood, gula melaka poured last in dark ribbons. Stir; drink-eat with a spoon-straw.

How to tell it is going right

This dish has no standard of its own yet. It is judged on the techniques it exercises: checked at the pan, while there is still something to be done about it.

Blanching & shocking 76 recipes

  • A large volume at a hard rolling boil, and enough of it that adding the food barely interrupts it; a pot that goes quiet has started stewing rather than blanching.
  • Timed rather than watched, and short. This is an interruption in the cooking of something, not the cooking of it.
  • The ice bath was made and standing beside the pot BEFORE anything went into the water, not started once the timer went off.
  • It went straight into the ice water, fully submerged, and stayed until cold at the centre: a piece still warm inside is still cooking, and the arrest has not happened yet.
  • Drained and dried afterwards rather than left sitting in water, so it does not carry that water into whatever it meets next.

Where it goes wrong The ice bath was not ready, so the food sat draining in a colander while its own residual heat carried on cooking it. By the time it cooled it was a stage past where it was pulled, and exact arrest is the entire reason for blanching rather than simply boiling.

Mashing & puréeing 114 recipes

  • Smooth to the degree the dish asks for, judged on the tongue rather than by eye: no lumps, no fibres, no grit, unless texture is the point.
  • No gluey elasticity: a spoonful drops cleanly off the spoon rather than stretching in a rope behind it.
  • The consistency holds: it mounds on a spoon and stays there, neither slumping flat nor standing so stiff that a spoon has to cut it.
  • Nothing separates on the plate: no water or fat weeping out into a ring within a minute of serving.
  • The colour is even throughout, with no streaks of unincorporated fat, liquid, or seasoning at the edges of the bowl.

Where it goes wrong A starchy ingredient met a high-speed blade, so the cells burst and released their starch: what should be light comes out as an elastic glue that lifts off the spoon in one mass.

At the Table

The Pour
Demi-sec Champagne
Also Right
Off-dry Chenin (Vouvray)
From the Taps
Fruited sour
Zero-Proof
Coconut water with lime

Tropical sweetness wants bubbles or Chenin’s honeyed acid: richness met with lift, not more weight.

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Film school

This dish, cooked on camera Search films of Cendol The cuisine, deeper Technique films from the Malaysian kitchen