The World Table

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Oaxacan · Starter

Chapulines al Ajo y Limón

  • Easy
  • 15 min
  • roughly 1 of 4 for cost

bright · rich · aromatic · fiery Leads with acid holding everything up to the light, richness that coats and comforts, on a slow, honest burn.

Ingredients

  • 300 g chapulines, small grade, cleaned
  • 30 g garlic, sliced paper thin
  • 30 g lard or neutral oil
  • 6 g chile de árbol or chile piquín, ground
  • 50 g lime juice
  • 8 g fine salt
  • warm tortillas, guacamole and quesillo, to serve

Equipment

Sheet pan

The skills inside

Tortillas on the comal

Allergen screen

Found: gluten · dairy

Screened for: gluten, dairy, egg, nuts, peanuts, fish, shellfish, molluscs, soy, sesame, celery, mustard, lupin, alcohol. Not screened: sulphites.

Screened by keyword from the ingredient list, not reviewed by a person; check every label for what the list cannot show.

Method

  1. Pick the chapulines over for stray legs and grit, and dry them in a low oven at 90C (195F) for 10 minutes if they feel at all soft. 10 min
  2. Set a comal or heavy pan over medium heat with the lard, add the garlic and cook until it is pale gold and stops bubbling hard.
  3. Tip in the chapulines and toast, shaking the pan constantly, 4-6 minutes: they turn from dull grey brown to brick red and begin to rattle against the metal like dry rice. 6 min
  4. Off the heat, dust with the ground chilli and salt, squeeze the lime over and toss twice, then eat them at once in a warm tortilla with guacamole and quesillo.

How to tell it is going right

This dish has no standard of its own yet. It is judged on the technique it exercises: checked at the pan, while there is still something to be done about it.

Tortillas on the comal 27 recipes

  • It puffs. On the second turn the tortilla lifts into a dome as the trapped water flashes to steam and splits the two faces apart; a tortilla that never puffs was pressed too thick, cooked too cool, or turned too often.
  • Freckled, not blackened: small brown spots across a pale field. An evenly browned tortilla has been on too long and will be a cracker by the time it reaches the table.
  • It folds without cracking while warm, and still folds after five minutes under a cloth. A tortilla that splits along the fold has lost too much water on the comal.
  • The edges are unbroken and roughly round, with no ragged fringe: a fringed edge means the masa was too dry when it was pressed, and no amount of heat will fix it afterwards.
  • It smells of toasted corn rather than of scorch or of raw lime. Raw lime means the nixtamal was under-rinsed; scorch means the comal was above the working heat.

Where it goes wrong The masa was too dry or the comal too cool. A dry masa cracks at the edge on pressing and cannot generate the steam that puffs it; a cool comal dries the tortilla through before the water can flash, so it leaves the heat stiff, pale and already stale.

At the Table

The Pour
Off-dry Riesling (Mosel Kabinett)
Also Right
Gewürztraminer or off-dry Chenin
From the Taps
Crisp lager or pilsner
Zero-Proof
Agua fresca or iced jasmine tea

Sugar, cold, and low alcohol are the fire code: sweetness tames capsaicin while acid resets the palate; tannin would fan the flames.

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Film school

This dish, cooked on camera Search films of Chapulines al Ajo y Limón Technique: Tortillas on the comalThe skill inside this recipe The cuisine, deeper Technique films from the Oaxacan kitchen