The World Table

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Caribbean · Main

Curry Goat

  • Intermediate
  • 3 h
  • roughly 1 of 4 for cost

earthy · aromatic · fiery · charred Leads with an earthy, grounding base, aromatics blooming from the first bite, with a bitter-edged char at the rim.

Ingredients

  • 1kg goat (or mutton), bone-in, chunked
  • 3 tbsp Jamaican curry powder (turmeric-heavy)
  • 1 scotch bonnet, 6 spring onions, garlic, ginger, thyme
  • 2 potatoes, chunked
  • Oil, salt, pimento berries

The skills inside

Searing: the hard crustFrying the paste until the oil splitsMarinating: acid, salt and time

The words inside

Mutton & HoggetLamb: Spring, Hogget & MuttonCurry Powder: The Colonial InventionBerries: The Late-Spring Sprint

Allergen screen

None found among the 14 screened.

Screened for: gluten, dairy, egg, nuts, peanuts, fish, shellfish, molluscs, soy, sesame, celery, mustard, lupin, alcohol. Not screened: sulphites.

Screened by keyword from the ingredient list, not reviewed by a person; check every label for what the list cannot show.

Method

  1. Season meat with curry powder and aromatics; marinate overnight.
  2. 'Burn the curry': fry another spoon of curry powder in oil until it darkens and smells toasty.
  3. Brown meat in that; add water to barely cover; simmer 2–2.5 h until sliding off the bone. 300 min
  4. Potatoes in for the last 30: they thicken the gravy as they fray at the edges.

How to tell it is going right

This dish has no standard of its own yet. It is judged on the techniques it exercises: checked at the pan, while there is still something to be done about it.

Marinating: acid, salt and time 70 recipes

  • Contact is total: every surface is wetted, and the pieces are not welded into a clump with dry faces where they pressed together.
  • The stated time was kept and kept cold, read against a clock, because this is the one technique where longer is a different result rather than a safer one.
  • It worked at the surface and no further: cut a piece and the marinade’s colour stops a few millimetres in. A protein gone opaque and chalky to the centre before any heat reached it has been cooked by the acid.
  • The texture is still springy and whole, not mushy, mealy, or fraying at the surface when it is lifted.
  • Where the next step browns it, the surface was patted dry first: a wet surface cannot brown, and the marinade’s sugars will scorch before the food colours.

Where it goes wrong It was left well beyond the stated time on the assumption that more is better, so acid and salt worked through the thin edges: those cook to cotton and read grainy while the thick centre tastes of nothing at all.

Frying the paste until the oil splits 95 recipes

  • It is being fried, not simmered: the paste is in fat over live heat and moving, holding a steady sizzle throughout rather than bubbling as a wet mass.
  • The colour has deepened and darkened from raw to cooked, and the volume has visibly reduced and tightened.
  • The split, the signal the whole technique is named for, is unmistakable when it comes: clear fat separates out and pools at the edges and on the surface, and the paste pulls away from the pan floor in one mass.
  • The smell has turned from sharp and raw to round and fragrant, with no raw bite left from any of the aromatics that went into it.
  • Nothing has caught: no black specks through the paste, no bitterness, and a pan floor that is browned but not burnt.

Where it goes wrong It was taken off as soon as it smelled good, before the fat separated; the raw edge of the aromatics is still in it, and the finished dish tastes thin and sharp no matter how long it simmers afterwards.

At the Table

The Pour
Off-dry Riesling (Mosel Kabinett)
Also Right
Gewürztraminer or off-dry Chenin
From the Taps
Crisp lager or pilsner
Zero-Proof
Agua fresca or iced jasmine tea

Sugar, cold, and low alcohol are the fire code: sweetness tames capsaicin while acid resets the palate; tannin would fan the flames.

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Film school

This dish, cooked on camera Search films of Curry Goat Search YouTube: Chris De La Rosa on Curry Goat A YouTube search for Chris De La Rosa and this dish. No affiliation.