Danish · Main
Gammeldags Oksesteg
- Advanced
- 45 min
- roughly 3 of 4 for cost
Leads with richness that coats and comforts.
Ingredients
- 1.5 kg beef topside, in one piece
- 150 g salt pork back fat, in 5 mm strips
- 50 g butter
- 2 onions, sliced
- 2 bay leaves
- 4 sprigs thyme
- 600 ml beef stock
- 200 ml double cream
- 25 g plain flour
- 25 g soft butter
- 1 tbsp redcurrant jelly
- 6 g salt and black pepper
The skills inside
Straining & passing through a sieveKeeping the cooking liquidResting meat & slicing against the grain
Allergen screen
Found: gluten · dairy
Screened for: gluten, dairy, egg, nuts, peanuts, fish, shellfish, molluscs, soy, sesame, celery, mustard, lupin, alcohol. Not screened: sulphites.
Screened by keyword from the ingredient list, not reviewed by a person; check every label for what the list cannot show.
Method
- Freeze the fat strips 15 minutes so they stay stiff, then thread them through the joint with the grain at roughly 2 cm spacing. 15 min
- Brown the joint in the butter on every face until it is deeply coloured rather than grey; the colour built here is the colour of the finished sauce.
- Add the onions, bay, thyme and enough stock to come a third of the way up, cover, and cook at 150C (300F), turning every 40 minutes, until a skewer slides in with only slight resistance and the centre reads 75C (167F), about 2 hours 30 minutes. 40 min
- Rest the meat 20 minutes under foil while you strain the liquor and reduce it by a third. 20 min
- Work the flour and soft butter to a paste and whisk it in a little at a time, then the cream and the jelly; simmer to a coating sauce and carve the meat across the grain.
How to tell it is going right
This dish has no standard of its own yet. It is judged on the techniques it exercises: checked at the pan, while there is still something to be done about it.
Resting meat & slicing against the grain 56 recipes
- It came off the heat BEFORE the target temperature, measured with a probe rather than by time, because carryover keeps driving the inside up after it is out.
- The probe went into the coldest likely part rather than the easiest one to reach: the reading that matters is the lowest one, not the first one.
- Rested for a time matched to its size, somewhere warm, and not cut into partway through to see how it is doing.
- The board is nearly dry when it is finally cut. A spreading pool means it was cut too early, and that liquid should have stayed inside.
- The grain was found and the knife went ACROSS it, so the fibres are cut short, and the blade was sharp enough that the slices hold together rather than tearing.
Where it goes wrong It was cut straight off the heat, usually because everything else was ready. The muscle is still contracted and the juice still driven to the centre, so it runs out onto the board; the meat is drier than it ever needed to be, and the flavour that left it is sitting in a puddle under the knife.
Keeping the cooking liquid 60 recipes
- It was actually kept: the liquid went into a container rather than down the drain, and the volume saved is enough to be worth using.
- It is clean: strained of solids and grit, and not clouded with the debris of whatever broke up in it.
- It tastes of what it cooked and tastes concentrated rather than washed out, and it is not so salty or so bitter that the only honest use is the bin.
- It was cooled quickly and stored cold, not left standing warm on the stove to be dealt with later.
- Used, it does the job the dish gives it (carrying flavour into a sauce, loosening the dish, or setting when chilled) rather than merely adding water back.
Where it goes wrong The pot was left to cool slowly on the stove and only strained the next day, so it soured overnight: what should have been the best ingredient in the dish goes in the bin, and the recipe gets water instead.
At the Table
- The Pour
- Cabernet Sauvignon or Malbec
- Also Right
- Tempranillo (Rioja Reserva)
- From the Taps
- Amber ale
- Zero-Proof
- Sparkling water, make room
Tannin binds to seared protein and fat: each bite softens the wine, each sip resets the palate: the steakhouse equation.
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