The World Table

An interactive culinary compendium: recipes, lexicon and study

Nigerian · Soup

Goat Meat Pepper Soup

  • Intermediate
  • 30 min
  • roughly 2 of 4 for cost

aromatic · nutty-toasted · fiery · herb-fresh Leads with aromatics blooming from the first bite, toasted, nutty warmth throughout, lifted green at the very end.

Ingredients

  • 1.2 kg goat on the bone, in 4 cm pieces, fat left on
  • 6 uda pods (grains of Selim), toasted
  • 2 ehuru (calabash nutmeg) seeds, toasted and cracked
  • 5 g uziza seeds
  • 1 onion, chopped
  • 20 g ginger, grated
  • 4 garlic cloves, crushed
  • 2 Scotch bonnets, left whole
  • 40 g ground crayfish
  • 1.5 litres water
  • 12 g fine salt
  • 20 g scent leaf (efirin) or basil, torn
  • 10 g utazi leaves, finely shredded

Equipment

Grater / zester

The skills inside

Dry-pan toasting: spices, seeds and nuts

Allergen screen

Found: shellfish

Screened for: gluten, dairy, egg, nuts, peanuts, fish, shellfish, molluscs, soy, sesame, celery, mustard, lupin, alcohol. Not screened: sulphites.

Screened by keyword from the ingredient list, not reviewed by a person; check every label for what the list cannot show.

Method

  1. Toast the uda, ehuru and uziza in a dry pan until they smell of woodsmoke and camphor, then grind them to a coarse powder; bought ready ground, they taste of nothing.
  2. Put the goat in a pot with the onion, ginger, garlic, salt and just enough water to cover, and simmer with the lid on for 40 minutes. 40 min
  3. Add the ground spice, the crayfish, the Scotch bonnets and the rest of the water, and simmer uncovered for 1 hour more, until the meat gives easily at the bone and the broth smells of the toasted spice rather than raw goat. 60 min
  4. Unlike the goat water, the bonnets stay in whole to the end here and the heat is meant to build; lift them out early only if you are cooking for someone who wants it mild.
  5. Take the pot off the heat, stir in the scent leaf and utazi and cover it for 3 minutes; the leaves should wilt, not cook. 3 min

How to tell it is going right

This dish has no standard of its own yet. It is judged on the technique it exercises: checked at the pan, while there is still something to be done about it.

Dry-pan toasting: spices, seeds and nuts 70 recipes

  • A single layer on dry metal with nothing added: no fat, and nothing else sharing the pan or the tray and competing for the heat.
  • It is kept moving: shaken, stirred, or turned. Anything left still scorches on the face touching the metal while the rest of it is barely warm.
  • It is judged by smell before sight: once it is fragrant there are seconds left, not minutes, and the nose reaches that point well before the colour does.
  • It leaves the pan the instant it is done, onto a cold surface. A hot pan keeps toasting whatever stays in it, and carryover here is the difference between done and ruined.
  • The colour is even and light rather than patchy, with nothing black at the edges: one scorched piece taints the whole quantity it is ground into.

Where it goes wrong It was left alone for a moment while something else was attended to. Dry heat has no margin: the pieces against the metal go from fragrant to acrid inside a minute, and the bitterness cannot be picked back out of a ground mixture.

At the Table

The Pour
Off-dry Riesling (Mosel Kabinett)
Also Right
Gewürztraminer or off-dry Chenin
From the Taps
Crisp lager or pilsner
Zero-Proof
Agua fresca or iced jasmine tea

Sugar, cold, and low alcohol are the fire code: sweetness tames capsaicin while acid resets the palate; tannin would fan the flames.

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Film school

This dish, cooked on camera Search films of Goat Meat Pepper Soup The cuisine, deeper Technique films from the Nigerian kitchen