Kadhi Pakora

Tadka: blooming spices in fat 22 recipes

• The fat is at tempering heat before anything goes in, around 180C (350F): one test seed dropped in surfaces and cracks within two or three seconds. A seed that sinks and sits quiet means the fat is cold and everything will steep rather than bloom; fat already hazing and thinning has gone past 200C (390F), and the first thing in will be black before the last thing is in.
• Ask what went in and in what order, then read it back off the pan: the hardest seeds lead, with ten to twenty seconds before the next addition, and the softest seeds, any leaf and any powdered aromatic go last with only seconds left. Everything tipped in on one drop is a fail even when the pan smells right, because the most delicate thing in it cannot survive the time the hardest one needs.
• The pan gave a hard scatter of popping that rose, peaked and thinned before it left the heat. A pan that stayed silent never reached popping heat and the seeds are still hard and raw against the teeth; seeds still cracking loudly as it is poured finished blooming in the dish instead of in the fat, where nothing was watching them.
• Cumin is exactly one shade darker than it went in and no more, a warm even brown that smells nutty and sweet; anything near coffee colour, or smelling of scorch, has already carried bitterness into the fat. Fenugreek is pale gold, checked under the light with nothing copper or brown among it, and this is the mark to judge first: past gold it turns the whole pot bitter, and no salt, sugar or souring will pull it back.
• The leaf is blistered and gone translucent, still green at the edge and crisp rather than black or limp, and it cracked sharply when it met the fat. It reached the dish still at full heat and answered with a violent hiss, and it reads on the surface afterwards as bright separate fat with whole spices suspended through it, not a dull dark sediment settled on the bottom.

Where it goes wrong The fat was pushed past hazing before anything went in, or every spice was tipped in together, so the hardest and the most delicate cooked on one clock: in the seconds the hardest seeds need to pop, fenugreek goes from gold to brown and the leaf goes black. Nothing can be corrected after that. The tempering pours in dark and smells scorched over the top of the dish, the specks read black rather than brown when the surface is turned to the light, and a flat acrid bitterness arrives at the back of the palate after the swallow and stays there through the next mouthful.

The wobble & the skewer: testing a bake 135 recipes

• Tested at the true centre and the thickest point, not at the convenient edge: the edge is done long before the answer is.
• The skewer comes out as the recipe describes, clean and dry or carrying the stated moist crumb, and it does the same on a second test in a different spot.
• The wobble is read in motion: nudged, the centre moves as one set mass with a faint tremble, rather than a liquid ripple travelling across the surface.
• The other signs agree with the test: risen and just shrinking from the sides, the top set and dry to a light touch with no wet gloss on it.
• Pressed lightly at the middle it springs back and leaves no lasting dent.

Where it goes wrong It was judged on the clock and on how the edges looked, so a centre still liquid went to the rack and sank as it cooled, a dense wet seam under a perfectly browned top.