Austrian · Dessert
Kaiserschmarrn
- Intermediate
- 35 min
- roughly 2 of 4 for cost
- Vegetarian
Leads with a sweet edge rounding the corners, richness that coats and comforts, leaving a faint perfume.
Ingredients
- 4 eggs, SEPARATED; 250ml milk; 120g flour; pinch salt
- 2 tbsp sugar + more for caramelizing; vanilla
- 50g raisins soaked in rum (imperial faction) or not (heretic faction)
- Plenty of butter
- Icing sugar blizzard; Zwetschkenröster (stewed plums) or apple sauce
The skills inside
Allergen screen
Found: gluten · dairy · egg · alcohol
Screened for: gluten, dairy, egg, nuts, peanuts, fish, shellfish, molluscs, soy, sesame, celery, mustard, lupin, alcohol. Not screened: sulphites.
Screened by keyword from the ingredient list, not reviewed by a person; check every label for what the list cannot show.
Method
- Batter from yolks, milk, flour; whip whites with sugar to soft peaks; fold in.
- Pour into foaming butter; scatter raisins; cook like a thick pancake till the base sets.
- Quarter it, flip the quarters, then TEAR into ragged bites with two forks in the pan.
- More butter and sugar over; toss till the edges caramelize. Bury in icing sugar; serve with plums.
How to tell it is going right
This dish has no standard of its own yet. It is judged on the technique it exercises: checked at the pan, while there is still something to be done about it.
Whipping a meringue 40 recipes
- Bowl and whisk are clean and dry with no trace of fat or yolk. Grease prevents the foam outright, and there is no recovering a bowl that had it partway through.
- The sugar went in gradually once the whites were already foaming, rather than all at once at the start.
- No grit: a little rubbed between finger and thumb feels smooth, so the sugar has dissolved into the foam rather than sitting in it.
- Stiff peaks means the tip stands with a slight bow when the whisk lifts, and the bowl can be tipped without the mass moving in it.
- Glossy and smooth rather than chalky or dull, with no liquid gathering underneath it in the bowl.
Where it goes wrong It was whipped past stiff peaks. A minute beyond glory the protein network tightens and tears, the foam turns grainy and matte, water weeps out beneath it, and folding that into anything gives a mixture that collapses on the way to the oven.
At the Table
- The Pour
- Tawny Port
- Also Right
- PX Sherry or bourbon
- From the Taps
- Barleywine
- Zero-Proof
- Cold-brew coffee
Caramel echoing caramel: oxidative aging built the same flavors into the glass that the pan built into the plate.
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