The World Table

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Kansas · Main

Kansas Fried Chicken

  • Intermediate
  • 2 h
  • roughly 2 of 4 for cost

rich · gently hot Leads with richness that coats and comforts, a warm current of chile.

Ingredients

  • 1 chicken, cut in 8
  • 1L buttermilk
  • 400g flour
  • 2 tbsp salt, 1 tbsp pepper, 1 tbsp paprika, 1 tsp cayenne
  • Lard or oil for frying

Equipment

Skillet · Deep-fry pot

The skills inside

Brining & curingThe coat before the fry: dredge, crumb, batterDraining fried food: a rack, never paperSteaming: basket, leaf and lid

Allergen screen

Found: gluten · dairy

Screened for: gluten, dairy, egg, nuts, peanuts, fish, shellfish, molluscs, soy, sesame, celery, mustard, lupin, alcohol. Not screened: sulphites.

Screened by keyword from the ingredient list, not reviewed by a person; check every label for what the list cannot show.

Method

  1. Brine the chicken in buttermilk overnight.
  2. Season the flour heavily and dredge each piece; rest on a rack 15 min so the crust sets. 15 min
  3. Melt lard in a cast-iron skillet to 2cm depth and heat to 165C.
  4. Fry covered for the first half to steam the meat through, then uncovered to crisp, turning once, 15-18 min total. 18 min
  5. Drain on a rack and rest 5 min. 5 min

How to tell it is going right

This dish has no standard of its own yet. It is judged on the techniques it exercises: checked at the pan, while there is still something to be done about it.

Draining fried food: a rack, never paper 77 recipes

  • The rack was in place before the first thing went into the oil, not fetched afterwards while food waited in a spider over the pot.
  • It lands on a rack with air moving underneath it. Anything set down on paper or a flat plate traps its own steam against its base.
  • Salted within seconds of landing, while it is still hot enough to take seasoning.
  • A minute later the underside is still as crisp as the top: no soft flat patch where it has been sitting.
  • Nothing is stacked or piled while hot, however tempting it is to keep it together. A pile steams itself soft from the inside out.

Where it goes wrong It was drained on paper, or piled up to keep warm. Steam leaving the food has nowhere to go but back into the crust, so the underside softens within a minute: the crispness the frying just bought is gone before the plate reaches the table.

The coat before the fry: dredge, crumb, batter 80 recipes

  • The coat is continuous before it goes anywhere near the fat: held up to the light, no bare patch of food shows through anywhere, seams and thin edges included.
  • It is bonded rather than resting on top: a gentle shake sheds loose dust only, and the coat does not slide off as a sheet when the piece is handled.
  • It bubbles hard and steadily from the moment it enters the fat, and the bubbling visibly slows as it finishes; those bubbles are the surface water leaving, and a quiet entry means the fat is too cool.
  • Out and drained, it is an even gold-brown all over and it is still crisp several minutes later on a rack; a coat that softens within a minute of coming out never lost its water.
  • Broken open, there is no paste of raw flour under the crust and no hollow gap where the coat has lifted away from the food.

Where it goes wrong The fat was below temperature or the pan was crowded, so the coat drank fat instead of sealing against it: it comes out pale and heavy, greasy to the fingers, and slumps off the food as it cools.

At the Table

The Pour
Chardonnay (village Burgundy)
Also Right
Chianti or Barbera
From the Taps
Bière de garde
Zero-Proof
Verbena iced tea

Chicken is wine’s most agreeable partner. Match the SAUCE, not the bird: cream to oak, tomato to Sangiovese’s acid, herbs to Loire whites.

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Film school

This dish, cooked on camera Search films of Kansas Fried Chicken Technique: Brining & curingThe skill inside this recipe Search YouTube: J. Kenji López-Alt on Kansas Fried Chicken A YouTube search for J. Kenji López-Alt and this dish. No affiliation.