The World Table

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Kansas · Dessert

Kansas Peppernuts

  • Intermediate
  • 1 h 30 m
  • roughly 2 of 4 for cost
  • Vegetarian

rich · warm-spiced · sweet-edged · nutty-toasted Leads with richness that coats and comforts, warm spice humming through the middle, closing toasted and warm.

Ingredients

  • 115g butter
  • 200g sugar
  • 1 egg
  • 120ml molasses or corn syrup
  • 375g flour
  • 1 tsp baking soda
  • 1 tsp cinnamon
  • 1/2 tsp cloves
  • 1/2 tsp nutmeg
  • 1/4 tsp black pepper
  • 1/4 tsp anise

Equipment

Sheet pan

The skills inside

Chilling to firm: the fridge as binderShaping by handCreaming butter & sugar

Allergen screen

Found: gluten · dairy · egg

Screened for: gluten, dairy, egg, nuts, peanuts, fish, shellfish, molluscs, soy, sesame, celery, mustard, lupin, alcohol. Not screened: sulphites.

Screened by keyword from the ingredient list, not reviewed by a person; check every label for what the list cannot show.

Method

  1. Cream the butter and sugar, beat in the egg and molasses.
  2. Whisk the flour, soda, and all the spices and work into a stiff dough.
  3. Roll into thin ropes and chill until firm.
  4. Cut the ropes into tiny pea-sized pieces and spread on trays.
  5. Bake at 175C for 10-12 min until firm. They harden as they cool and keep for weeks. 12 min

How to tell it is going right

This dish has no standard of its own yet. It is judged on the techniques it exercises: checked at the pan, while there is still something to be done about it.

Creaming butter & sugar 28 recipes

  • The butter started at the right temperature: it took a fingerprint and held its shape, neither greasy and slumping nor hard from the fridge.
  • It has visibly paled, from yellow towards near-white, and grown in volume, and getting there took minutes rather than seconds.
  • The texture is light and aerated: a spoonful is fluffy and holds a soft peak rather than sitting dense on the spoon.
  • Rubbed between finger and thumb it is still faintly gritty with undissolved sugar, and not slick or oily.
  • It is one homogeneous cream: not split, slackened, or separating into a greasy mass with liquid running out of it.

Where it goes wrong The butter was too warm, or it was beaten well past its point, so the fat softened and gave up the air it had taken: the mixture goes slack and oily and the cake bakes dense and greasy with a sunken middle.

Chilling to firm: the fridge as binder 48 recipes

  • It went cold before it was handled any further, and it went in spread flat and covered rather than as a warm mass that insulates its own centre.
  • It is cold through rather than cold at the edge: tested at the middle it is as firm as it is at the rim.
  • It holds its shape unsupported; it can be cut, portioned, rolled or lifted without slumping, tearing, or sticking to the hands.
  • The fat in it has gone solid: it feels firm and waxy to the fingers rather than greasy and yielding.
  • It survives the step it was chilled for, going into heat or a coating or a mould still holding its form rather than collapsing the moment it is touched.

Where it goes wrong It was given twenty minutes instead of the hours it needed, so it is firm at the rim and soft at the core: it slumps out of shape as it is portioned, and everything made from it spreads or breaks apart in the pan.

At the Table

The Pour
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Jasmine tea

The sweetness rule is absolute: the pour must be sweeter than the plate, and acid keeps it from cloying.

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Film school

This dish, cooked on camera Search films of Kansas Peppernuts Search YouTube: J. Kenji López-Alt on Kansas Peppernuts A YouTube search for J. Kenji López-Alt and this dish. No affiliation.