Northern Chinese · Main
Lao Beijing Zhajiangmian
- Intermediate
- 40 min
- roughly 3 of 4 for cost
Leads with warm spice humming through the middle, aromatics blooming from the first bite, on a rich, rounded finish.
Ingredients
- 300 g pork belly, hand chopped to 5 mm dice, about 30 percent fat
- 150 g ganhuangjiang (dry yellow soybean paste)
- 60 g tianmianjiang (sweet flour paste)
- 100 g water, to slake the pastes
- 120 g neutral oil
- 6 spring onions, whites minced and greens sliced
- 20 g ginger, minced
- 15 g Shaoxing wine
- 10 g sugar
- 1 star anise
- 500 g fresh thick wheat noodles
- 1 cucumber, cut in fine julienne
- 100 g mung bean sprouts, blanched 20 seconds
- 100 g shelled young soybeans, boiled 8 minutes
- 200 g white radish, cut in fine julienne
- 2 garlic cloves, peeled, to eat alongside
Equipment
Wok
The skills inside
Wok techniqueRendering fat: and cooking in what runs outFrying the paste until the oil splitsBlanching & shockingKnife cuts: dice, julienne, bias
The words inside
Allergen screen
Found: gluten · soy · alcohol
Screened for: gluten, dairy, egg, nuts, peanuts, fish, shellfish, molluscs, soy, sesame, celery, mustard, lupin, alcohol. Not screened: sulphites.
Screened by keyword from the ingredient list, not reviewed by a person; check every label for what the list cannot show.
Method
- Slake the pastes: stir the ganhuangjiang and tianmianjiang with the water until smooth and pourable, about the body of double cream, then leave them to sit.
- Render the pork belly in a cold wok over medium heat for 8 minutes, until the fat has run clear and the dice are browned and crisping at the edges. 8 min
- Add ginger, spring onion whites, star anise and wine, then pour in the slaked paste and the rest of the oil and fry over low heat, stirring almost constantly, for 20 to 25 minutes, until the paste darkens to the colour of wet earth and the oil breaks out and pools dark on top. Stir in the sugar. 25 min
- Boil the noodles until just past the chalk stage, then either serve them straight from the pot or, in summer, drop them into cold water and drain.
- Pile the raw vegetables around each bowl, spoon the sauce into the middle and let each person toss their own, eating with a raw garlic clove bitten between mouthfuls.
How to tell it is going right
This dish has no standard of its own yet. It is judged on the techniques it exercises: checked at the pan, while there is still something to be done about it.
Wok technique 28 recipes
- Everything went in dry and went in in order. Wet protein or wet vegetables drop the wok below the heat that browns, and what follows is a stew in a round pan however hard the burner is working.
- The wok stays loud from the first moment to the last. A wok that falls quiet has been overloaded, and the food in it is now boiling in its own liquid.
- Every piece is coated and glossy with no pooled sauce in the bottom of the dish: the sauce should cling by reduction and starch, not sit under the food.
- Vegetables keep their colour and a bite at the centre. Grey-green greens or a limp stem mean too long in the pan, and nothing later in the dish recovers them.
- It carries the faint scorched note that only comes from food touching metal above about 200C, distinct from bitterness, which means the aromatics were burnt and is a different failure entirely.
Where it goes wrong Too much went in at once, or it went in wet. The wok loses its heat, the food releases water and simmers, the sauce thins instead of clinging, and the dish arrives pale and slack with liquid pooling under it.
Rendering fat: and cooking in what runs out 73 recipes
- It started cold or low and came up slowly: fat that met a hot pan seizes and scorches before the inside can melt, and there is no recovering it.
- The fat in the pan is clear and clean-smelling, pale to golden, with no dark sediment on the floor and nothing acrid in the steam.
- What is left behind is crisp and deep gold with no soft pale fat still clinging to it and no black burnt edges.
- There is a real volume of it: enough to film the pan floor and be poured off and kept, not a dry smear that never ran.
- Whatever cooks in it browns in it and takes its flavour, rather than sitting in a greasy pool that never gets hot enough to colour anything.
Where it goes wrong The heat was raised to hurry it along, so the outside seized and browned before the interior fat could melt; very little runs out, and the solids come out burnt on the outside and rubbery within.
At the Table
- The Pour
- Riesling or Grenache
- Also Right
- Cru Beaujolais
- From the Taps
- Farmhouse saison
- Zero-Proof
- Cloudy apple juice, chilled
Pork loves fruit and gentle sweetness: orchard-note whites and low-tannin reds flatter it where heavy oak flattens.
Saved on this device and kept across visits: export from My Menu to move them.