The World Table

An interactive culinary compendium: recipes, lexicon and study

Egyptian · Main

Mahshi Kromb

  • Advanced
  • 60 min
  • roughly 2 of 4 for cost
  • Vegetarian

herb-fresh · umami-deep · bright · earthy Leads with fresh herbs arguing happily on top, savory depth stacked from the pantry’s bass notes, settling low and earthy.

Ingredients

  • 1 white cabbage, about 1.5 kg
  • 400 g Egyptian short grain rice, rinsed until the water runs clear
  • 400 g ripe tomatoes, grated
  • 150 g onion, finely chopped
  • 60 g flat parsley
  • 40 g dill
  • 40 g coriander leaf
  • 60 ml sunflower oil
  • 60 g samna
  • 10 g ground cumin
  • 5 g ground coriander
  • 12 g salt
  • 30 g tomato paste
  • 500 ml water
  • 1 lemon
  • 4 garlic cloves, crushed
  • 5 g dried mint

Equipment

Grater / zester

The skills inside

Salted water & the float test

Allergen screen

Found: dairy

Screened for: gluten, dairy, egg, nuts, peanuts, fish, shellfish, molluscs, soy, sesame, celery, mustard, lupin, alcohol. Not screened: sulphites.

Screened by keyword from the ingredient list, not reviewed by a person; check every label for what the list cannot show.

Method

  1. Core the cabbage, lower the head into boiling salted water and peel the leaves away as they slacken, lifting each one while it is still bright and bends without cracking; shave the thick rib flat.
  2. Mix the raw rice with the grated tomato, onion, herbs, oil, cumin, coriander and salt. It should taste a shade too salty in the bowl; the rice will take it up.
  3. Roll pencil thick lines of filling in the leaves, seam down, packed loose, leaving a third of the leaf empty at each end for the rice to grow into.
  4. Line the pot with the shaved ribs and the outer leaves, pack the rolls in tight layers, set a plate on top as a weight, then pour in the water slaked with tomato paste and lemon juice to just cover.
  5. Bring to a boil, drop to the faintest simmer for 45 minutes, then pour over the garlic and dried mint fried in the samna, cover and leave off the heat for 5 minutes. 45 min

How to tell it is going right

This dish has no standard of its own yet. It is judged on the technique it exercises: checked at the pan, while there is still something to be done about it.

Salted water & the float test 188 recipes

  • The water was salted before anything went in, and tasting it confirms it: seasoned on the tongue, with the salt dissolved rather than sitting on the pot floor.
  • There is enough water, hot enough, that the pot returns to its boil quickly after the food goes in and never stops moving.
  • Where the dish uses the float as its signal, the signal is obeyed: the pieces rise and they come out then, not several minutes later once something else was finished.
  • Nothing is stuck to the bottom of the pot or welded to itself, and the water has not thickened into a cloudy sludge.
  • Drained on a bite rather than on the clock: resistance at the centre, with no chalky raw core.

Where it goes wrong The pot was too small and the water unsalted, so it never recovered its boil: the food sat in slack water, went gummy at the surface, and comes out bland in a way that no sauce afterwards can fix.

At the Table

The Pour
Chianti Classico or Barbera d’Alba
Also Right
Vermentino for the lighter plates
From the Taps
Italian pilsner
Zero-Proof
San Pellegrino Sanbittèr

Tomato’s acid demands equal acid: Italian reds evolved beside the sauce, and the regional pairing is the safest law in wine.

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Film school

This dish, cooked on camera Search films of Mahshi Kromb The cuisine, deeper Technique films from the Egyptian kitchen