The World Table

An interactive culinary compendium: recipes, lexicon and study

Seafood Atlas · Main

Maine Lobster Roll

  • Intermediate
  • 45 min
  • roughly 4 of 4 for cost

rich · bright · herb-fresh Leads with richness that coats and comforts, acid holding everything up to the light, lifted green at the very end.

Ingredients

  • 2 live lobsters, 600g each (or 400g picked cooked meat; knuckle and claw are the sweet spots)
  • THE SCHISM. Maine style: meat lightly bound with 3 tbsp mayo, lemon, pinch of celery salt; Connecticut style: meat warmed in 60g melted butter, nothing else
  • 4 top-split New England buns: the flat-sided kind exists to be griddled
  • More butter for griddling the bun sides
  • Chives; potato chips alongside, per the shack constitution

The skills inside

Griddle & plancha workSalted water & the float testBlanching & shocking

Allergen screen

Found: dairy · egg · shellfish · celery

Screened for: gluten, dairy, egg, nuts, peanuts, fish, shellfish, molluscs, soy, sesame, celery, mustard, lupin, alcohol. Not screened: sulphites.

Screened by keyword from the ingredient list, not reviewed by a person; check every label for what the list cannot show.

Method

  1. Boil lobsters in heavily salted water 8–9 min; ice bath; crack and pick, keeping the pieces LARGE: a lobster roll is judged by chunk size. 9 min
  2. Choose your state: fold with cool mayo (Maine) or swirl through warm butter (Connecticut). There is no third option and no peace summit.
  3. Butter the flat sides of the buns; griddle to gold.
  4. Pack the meat in beyond reason; chives over. Serve immediately with chips and a view of water, real or imagined.

How to tell it is going right

This dish has no standard of its own yet. It is judged on the techniques it exercises: checked at the pan, while there is still something to be done about it.

Griddle & plancha work 45 recipes

  • Full contact with the metal: the food lies flat, with no dome in the middle and no curled edge lifting it away, so browning reaches the entire face rather than a ring of it.
  • Contact is immediate and audible, and the food stays where it is put rather than sliding around in a slick of its own released liquid.
  • The cooked face is an unbroken sheet of even colour: the whole surface browned, not a pattern of marks with pale ground between them, and not a dark centre with pale corners.
  • The metal around the food is dry: no spreading wet patch steaming out from under it, nothing weeping onto the surface and boiling there.
  • Turned once or twice and no more, and lifted while the crust is still brown: a piece flipped repeatedly never holds heat long enough to build one.

Where it goes wrong The surface was crowded and its temperature crashed, so everything gave up its water at once and stewed on the metal: pale, damp, grey at the edges, and stuck fast where the crust never got the chance to form.

Blanching & shocking 76 recipes

  • A large volume at a hard rolling boil, and enough of it that adding the food barely interrupts it; a pot that goes quiet has started stewing rather than blanching.
  • Timed rather than watched, and short. This is an interruption in the cooking of something, not the cooking of it.
  • The ice bath was made and standing beside the pot BEFORE anything went into the water, not started once the timer went off.
  • It went straight into the ice water, fully submerged, and stayed until cold at the centre: a piece still warm inside is still cooking, and the arrest has not happened yet.
  • Drained and dried afterwards rather than left sitting in water, so it does not carry that water into whatever it meets next.

Where it goes wrong The ice bath was not ready, so the food sat draining in a colander while its own residual heat carried on cooking it. By the time it cooled it was a stage past where it was pulled, and exact arrest is the entire reason for blanching rather than simply boiling.

At the Table

The Pour
Barrel-aged Chardonnay (Meursault style)
Also Right
Champagne
From the Taps
Pilsner or witbier
Zero-Proof
White grape & tonic

Butter-dressed shellfish climbs a weight class: oak-and-cream Chardonnay matches it richness for richness.

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Film school

This dish, cooked on camera Search films of Maine Lobster Roll Search YouTube: Helen Rennie on Maine Lobster Roll A YouTube search for Helen Rennie and this dish. No affiliation.