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Resting dough: the pause that does the work 71 recipes

• It actually rested, covered, for the time stated, not cut short because the rest of the schedule was tight.
• It rolls and shapes without fighting: it stays where it is put, and it does not spring back or shrink on the bench between passes.
• The surface is smooth and supple rather than dry, cracked, or skinned over.
• It is at the temperature the next step needs: cold where the fat must stay solid, cool and relaxed where it must be rolled thin.
• Baked, it holds the dimensions it was shaped to rather than shrinking back from the edges of the tin or the rim of the dish.

Where it goes wrong The rest was skipped or shortened, so the gluten was still tight: the dough fought the pin and sprang back thick and uneven, then shrank down the sides of the tin in the oven.

Salted water & the float test 188 recipes

• The water was salted before anything went in, and tasting it confirms it: seasoned on the tongue, with the salt dissolved rather than sitting on the pot floor.
• There is enough water, hot enough, that the pot returns to its boil quickly after the food goes in and never stops moving.
• Where the dish uses the float as its signal, the signal is obeyed: the pieces rise and they come out then, not several minutes later once something else was finished.
• Nothing is stuck to the bottom of the pot or welded to itself, and the water has not thickened into a cloudy sludge.
• Drained on a bite rather than on the clock: resistance at the centre, with no chalky raw core.

Where it goes wrong The pot was too small and the water unsalted, so it never recovered its boil: the food sat in slack water, went gummy at the surface, and comes out bland in a way that no sauce afterwards can fix.