The World Table

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Argentine · Main

Milanesa a la Napolitana

  • Intermediate
  • 60 min
  • roughly 2 of 4 for cost

rich · charred · aromatic · herb-fresh Leads with richness that coats and comforts, char used as punctuation, lifted green at the very end.

Ingredients

  • 4 thin beef escalopes (nalga or peceto), pounded wide and even
  • Flour; 3 eggs beaten with garlic, parsley and a splash of milk; fine breadcrumbs
  • Oil for shallow frying, a finger deep
  • The 'napolitana' armor: tomato sauce, ham slices, mozzarella, oregano
  • Fries underneath or a fried egg on top (a caballo), or both; restraint is not the theme

The skills inside

The broiler: heat from aboveSautéing & the shallow fryThe coat before the fry: dredge, crumb, batter

The words inside

Deep & Shallow Frying

Allergen screen

Found: gluten · dairy · egg

Screened for: gluten, dairy, egg, nuts, peanuts, fish, shellfish, molluscs, soy, sesame, celery, mustard, lupin, alcohol. Not screened: sulphites.

Screened by keyword from the ingredient list, not reviewed by a person; check every label for what the list cannot show.

Method

  1. Season the escalopes; flour, garlicky egg, crumbs: press the crumbs on firmly this time; milanesa crust should be a jacket, not a soufflé.
  2. Fry at 175°C, 2–3 min a side, to even deep gold; drain. 3 min
  3. Blanket each with tomato sauce, ham, mozzarella, oregano.
  4. Under a hot broiler until the cheese bubbles and spots. Serve over fries, immediately, in portions that look like a dare.

How to tell it is going right

This dish has no standard of its own yet. It is judged on the techniques it exercises: checked at the pan, while there is still something to be done about it.

The broiler: heat from above 22 recipes

  • The element is fully lit and the compartment is hot before anything goes under it. A broiler switched on with the food already in place browns nothing for several minutes and then burns it in one.
  • The distance was set before the dish went in, not adjusted afterwards with a hot dish in one hand: how close it sits is the only heat control this method has.
  • Somebody stayed with it for the whole time. The window between pale and bitter is tens of seconds, and nothing under a broiler is ever safe to walk away from.
  • The surface has coloured evenly right across, having been turned at least once; every grill has a hot corner and none of them say where it is.
  • What is underneath is no further cooked than when it went in. Top heat is there to finish a surface, and anything that came out hotter all the way through was reheated rather than glazed.

Where it goes wrong It was treated as an oven setting: food in, timer set, cook walks away. Radiant heat from above has no gentle phase, so the surface goes from pale to bitter inside a minute while the inside is untouched, and there is no stage in between to catch.

Sautéing & the shallow fry 80 recipes

  • Everything sits in a single layer with visible space between the pieces: nothing stacked, nothing touching, or the pan is too small for the quantity.
  • The pieces move freely and keep moving, sliding across the pan rather than sticking and tearing when the pan is worked.
  • Light even browning arrived at quickly: colour on most faces, not the deep crust of a sear and not grey.
  • A thin film of fat with the food glossed by it: no pool left in the pan at the end, and nothing greasy on the fingers or the plate.
  • Cooked through but still firm, having spent only a few minutes in the pan: anything that has gone soft has been in there too long.

Where it goes wrong Too much went in at once, the pan cooled, and the food released its water: what was meant to brown in three minutes stews for ten and comes out grey, slack and wet.

At the Table

The Pour
Cabernet Sauvignon or Malbec
Also Right
Tempranillo (Rioja Reserva)
From the Taps
Amber ale
Zero-Proof
Sparkling water, make room

Tannin binds to seared protein and fat: each bite softens the wine, each sip resets the palate: the steakhouse equation.

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Film school

This dish, cooked on camera Search films of Milanesa a la Napolitana Search YouTube: Locos X el Asado on Milanesa a la Napolitana A YouTube search for Locos X el Asado and this dish. No affiliation.