The World Table

An interactive culinary compendium: recipes, lexicon and study

New Mexico · Dessert

New Mexico Biscochitos

  • Intermediate
  • 75 min
  • roughly 2 of 4 for cost
  • Vegetarian

rich · warm-spiced Leads with richness that coats and comforts, warm spice humming through the middle.

Ingredients

  • 225g lard (or shortening for a vegetarian version)
  • 150g sugar
  • 1 egg
  • 1 tsp anise seed
  • 2 tbsp brandy or orange juice
  • 375g flour
  • 1 tsp baking powder
  • 1/2 tsp salt
  • For coating: 100g sugar, 1 tbsp cinnamon

Equipment

Rolling pin

The skills inside

Kneading doughFolding: keeping the air in

Allergen screen

Found: gluten · egg · alcohol

Screened for: gluten, dairy, egg, nuts, peanuts, fish, shellfish, molluscs, soy, sesame, celery, mustard, lupin, alcohol. Not screened: sulphites.

Screened by keyword from the ingredient list, not reviewed by a person; check every label for what the list cannot show.

Method

  1. Cream the lard and sugar until fluffy, beat in the egg, anise seed, and brandy.
  2. Fold in the flour, baking powder, and salt to a firm dough.
  3. Roll out and cut into shapes, traditionally fleur-de-lis.
  4. Bake at 175C for 10-12 min until set but pale. 12 min
  5. Toss the warm cookies in cinnamon sugar.

How to tell it is going right

This dish has no standard of its own yet. It is judged on the techniques it exercises: checked at the pan, while there is still something to be done about it.

Folding: keeping the air in 34 recipes

  • The air was actually built first and it shows: whatever was creamed or whipped has changed colour and grown in volume, pale and light rather than dense.
  • The two mixtures were brought closer before being combined: a little of the light one worked into the heavy one first, so the rest is not beaten flat trying to move it.
  • Folded and not stirred: a broad implement down through the middle, across the base, up and over, with the bowl turned between strokes.
  • Stopped the moment the streaks disappear. It is still visibly aerated and holds its shape briefly when the spoon lifts away.
  • Into the tin and into the oven straight away: a batter left standing on the bench gives back the air it was built for.

Where it goes wrong It was stirred until it looked perfectly smooth. Every stroke past the point where the streaks vanish knocks out air that cannot be put back, so the bake comes out dense and short of the tin, and often wet through the middle where there was no structure to hold it.

Kneading dough 57 recipes

  • The work changed it: what began shaggy and rough is one smooth, cohesive mass, with nothing raggy hanging off it.
  • The surface has gone satin and barely tacky, releasing cleanly from hands and board instead of leaving a trail.
  • Worked to the point this dough asks for and no further: springy and elastic where structure is wanted, just brought together where tenderness is.
  • Torn or cut open, the inside is uniform: no dry streaks, no unmixed pockets, no core of flour that never met the water.
  • After its rest it rolls and shapes without snapping back. A dough that fights the pin needed more rest, not more force.

Where it goes wrong Sticking was fought with flour instead of technique or patience, stroke after stroke, until the dough had taken in far more than the formula asked; it turns tight and dry under the hands, and bakes dense however well everything else goes.

At the Table

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The sweetness rule is absolute: the pour must be sweeter than the plate, and acid keeps it from cloying.

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Film school

This dish, cooked on camera Search films of New Mexico Biscochitos Search YouTube: J. Kenji López-Alt on New Mexico Biscochitos A YouTube search for J. Kenji López-Alt and this dish. No affiliation.