The World Table

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New Mexico · Main

New Mexico Chile Rellenos

  • Advanced
  • 1 h 30 m
  • roughly 1 of 4 for cost
  • Vegetarian

rich · fiery Leads with richness that coats and comforts, real fire that builds and stays.

Ingredients

  • 8 roasted Hatch green chiles, peeled, slit, seeds removed
  • 300g Monterey Jack or asadero cheese, in batons
  • 4 eggs, separated
  • 3 tbsp flour, plus more for dusting
  • Neutral oil for frying
  • For the sauce: red or green chile sauce, warmed
  • Salt

Equipment

Deep-fry pot

The skills inside

Whipping a meringueDeep fryingThe coat before the fry: dredge, crumb, batterKnife cuts: dice, julienne, bias

The words inside

Hatch Chile

Allergen screen

Found: gluten · dairy · egg

Screened for: gluten, dairy, egg, nuts, peanuts, fish, shellfish, molluscs, soy, sesame, celery, mustard, lupin, alcohol. Not screened: sulphites.

Screened by keyword from the ingredient list, not reviewed by a person; check every label for what the list cannot show.

Method

  1. Stuff each roasted chile with a baton of cheese and pinch the slit closed.
  2. Dust the stuffed chiles lightly with flour.
  3. Whip the egg whites to stiff peaks, then fold in the yolks and 3 tbsp flour for a light batter.
  4. Dip each chile in the batter and fry in 180C oil, spooning oil over, until golden and puffed.
  5. Drain and serve smothered in warm chile sauce.

How to tell it is going right

This dish has no standard of its own yet. It is judged on the techniques it exercises: checked at the pan, while there is still something to be done about it.

Whipping a meringue 40 recipes

  • Bowl and whisk are clean and dry with no trace of fat or yolk. Grease prevents the foam outright, and there is no recovering a bowl that had it partway through.
  • The sugar went in gradually once the whites were already foaming, rather than all at once at the start.
  • No grit: a little rubbed between finger and thumb feels smooth, so the sugar has dissolved into the foam rather than sitting in it.
  • Stiff peaks means the tip stands with a slight bow when the whisk lifts, and the bowl can be tipped without the mass moving in it.
  • Glossy and smooth rather than chalky or dull, with no liquid gathering underneath it in the bowl.

Where it goes wrong It was whipped past stiff peaks. A minute beyond glory the protein network tightens and tears, the foam turns grainy and matte, water weeps out beneath it, and folding that into anything gives a mixture that collapses on the way to the oven.

The coat before the fry: dredge, crumb, batter 80 recipes

  • The coat is continuous before it goes anywhere near the fat: held up to the light, no bare patch of food shows through anywhere, seams and thin edges included.
  • It is bonded rather than resting on top: a gentle shake sheds loose dust only, and the coat does not slide off as a sheet when the piece is handled.
  • It bubbles hard and steadily from the moment it enters the fat, and the bubbling visibly slows as it finishes; those bubbles are the surface water leaving, and a quiet entry means the fat is too cool.
  • Out and drained, it is an even gold-brown all over and it is still crisp several minutes later on a rack; a coat that softens within a minute of coming out never lost its water.
  • Broken open, there is no paste of raw flour under the crust and no hollow gap where the coat has lifted away from the food.

Where it goes wrong The fat was below temperature or the pan was crowded, so the coat drank fat instead of sealing against it: it comes out pale and heavy, greasy to the fingers, and slumps off the food as it cools.

At the Table

The Pour
Off-dry Riesling (Mosel Kabinett)
Also Right
Gewürztraminer or off-dry Chenin
From the Taps
Crisp lager or pilsner
Zero-Proof
Agua fresca or iced jasmine tea

Sugar, cold, and low alcohol are the fire code: sweetness tames capsaicin while acid resets the palate; tannin would fan the flames.

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Film school

This dish, cooked on camera Search films of New Mexico Chile Rellenos Technique: Whipping a meringueThe skill inside this recipeTechnique: Deep fryingThe skill inside this recipe Search YouTube: J. Kenji López-Alt on New Mexico Chile Rellenos A YouTube search for J. Kenji López-Alt and this dish. No affiliation.