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Senegalese · Sauce

Nokoss

  • Easy
  • 20 min
  • roughly 1 of 4 for cost
  • Vegetarian
  • Vegan

herb-fresh · aromatic · fiery · warm-spiced Leads with fresh herbs arguing happily on top, aromatics blooming from the first bite, fading in warm spice.

Ingredients

  • 3 onions (450 g), roughly chopped
  • 1 whole head of garlic, cloves peeled
  • 40 g flat parsley, thick stalks included
  • 2 scotch bonnets, stalks removed
  • 20 g netetou (fermented locust bean)
  • 1 tbsp black peppercorns
  • 10 g salt
  • 80 ml groundnut oil

Equipment

Mortar & pestle

The skills inside

FermentationDry-pan toasting: spices, seeds and nutsMashing & puréeing

Allergen screen

Found: peanuts

Screened for: gluten, dairy, egg, nuts, peanuts, fish, shellfish, molluscs, soy, sesame, celery, mustard, lupin, alcohol. Not screened: sulphites.

Screened by keyword from the ingredient list, not reviewed by a person; check every label for what the list cannot show.

Method

  1. Toast the netetou in a dry pan over low heat, shaking, until the sharp ammoniacal smell gives way to something malty and the beans darken a shade.
  2. In a mortar, crush the peppercorns to a coarse grit first, then work in the netetou, then the garlic and chillies with the salt as an abrasive.
  3. Add the parsley and pound until it is bruised into the paste, then the onion last, working only until it breaks down and no further.
  4. Pack into a jar, level the surface and pour the oil over so it seals the paste from the air. Keep cold and spoon out with a dry spoon.

How to tell it is going right

This dish has no standard of its own yet. It is judged on the techniques it exercises: checked at the pan, while there is still something to be done about it.

Fermentation 53 recipes

  • Held somewhere with a steady temperature it can actually work at, chosen on purpose rather than wherever there happened to be room.
  • There is visible activity before it is called started: bubbles, rise, or movement in the liquid. A ferment showing nothing after its first hours is not slow, it is not going.
  • It smells clean: sour, yeasty, or alcoholic, with nothing putrid, and with nothing fuzzy or coloured growing where air meets it.
  • Everything is under the liquid or under a cover, as the method requires: nothing solid left sitting dry in the air to spoil while the rest works.
  • Judged by taste and behaviour and then STOPPED: chilled, baked, or refrigerated at the point wanted, rather than left running because the stated hours had not elapsed.

Where it goes wrong It was run on the clock in a kitchen colder or warmer than the recipe assumed. Fermentation is a rate and not a duration, so the same number of hours gives an under-developed ferment in a cold room and a slack, over-soured one in a warm one, and only tasting it would have said which.

Dry-pan toasting: spices, seeds and nuts 70 recipes

  • A single layer on dry metal with nothing added: no fat, and nothing else sharing the pan or the tray and competing for the heat.
  • It is kept moving: shaken, stirred, or turned. Anything left still scorches on the face touching the metal while the rest of it is barely warm.
  • It is judged by smell before sight: once it is fragrant there are seconds left, not minutes, and the nose reaches that point well before the colour does.
  • It leaves the pan the instant it is done, onto a cold surface. A hot pan keeps toasting whatever stays in it, and carryover here is the difference between done and ruined.
  • The colour is even and light rather than patchy, with nothing black at the edges: one scorched piece taints the whole quantity it is ground into.

Where it goes wrong It was left alone for a moment while something else was attended to. Dry heat has no margin: the pieces against the metal go from fragrant to acrid inside a minute, and the bitterness cannot be picked back out of a ground mixture.

At the Table

The Pour
Off-dry Riesling (Mosel Kabinett)
Also Right
Gewürztraminer or off-dry Chenin
From the Taps
Crisp lager or pilsner
Zero-Proof
Agua fresca or iced jasmine tea

Sugar, cold, and low alcohol are the fire code: sweetness tames capsaicin while acid resets the palate; tannin would fan the flames.

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Film school

This dish, cooked on camera Search films of Nokoss Technique: FermentationThe skill inside this recipe The cuisine, deeper Technique films from the Senegalese kitchen