The World Table

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Sri Lankan · Sauce

Pol Sambola

  • Easy
  • 15 min
  • roughly 1 of 4 for cost

gently hot · bright Leads with a warm current of chile, acid holding everything up to the light.

Ingredients

  • 200 g freshly scraped coconut
  • 15 g Maldive fish, umbalakada
  • 1 small red onion, 60 g, roughly chopped
  • 6 dried red chillies, or 2 tbsp Sri Lankan chilli powder
  • 1 tsp salt
  • 0.25 tsp ground black pepper
  • juice of 1 lime

Equipment

Mortar & pestle

The skills inside

Mashing & puréeing

The words inside

Mortar & Pestle: Molcajete, Suribachi, Granite

Allergen screen

Found: fish

Screened for: gluten, dairy, egg, nuts, peanuts, fish, shellfish, molluscs, soy, sesame, celery, mustard, lupin, alcohol. Not screened: sulphites.

Screened by keyword from the ingredient list, not reviewed by a person; check every label for what the list cannot show.

Method

  1. Pound the dried chillies with the salt in a mortar to a coarse flake, then add the Maldive fish and work it until no hard splinters remain.
  2. Add the onion and pound to a rough wet pulp; the mixture turns bright red as the onion water releases the chilli.
  3. Work in the coconut a handful at a time, pressing rather than striking, until it is stained an even brick red and beads of oil show on the pestle.
  4. Squeeze in the lime, add the pepper, and press the sambola into a fist a few times; it should hold its shape when released.

How to tell it is going right

This dish has no standard of its own yet. It is judged on the technique it exercises: checked at the pan, while there is still something to be done about it.

Mashing & puréeing 114 recipes

  • Smooth to the degree the dish asks for, judged on the tongue rather than by eye: no lumps, no fibres, no grit, unless texture is the point.
  • No gluey elasticity: a spoonful drops cleanly off the spoon rather than stretching in a rope behind it.
  • The consistency holds: it mounds on a spoon and stays there, neither slumping flat nor standing so stiff that a spoon has to cut it.
  • Nothing separates on the plate: no water or fat weeping out into a ring within a minute of serving.
  • The colour is even throughout, with no streaks of unincorporated fat, liquid, or seasoning at the edges of the bowl.

Where it goes wrong A starchy ingredient met a high-speed blade, so the cells burst and released their starch: what should be light comes out as an elastic glue that lifts off the spoon in one mass.

At the Table

The Pour
Off-dry Riesling (Mosel Kabinett)
Also Right
Gewürztraminer or off-dry Chenin
From the Taps
Crisp lager or pilsner
Zero-Proof
Agua fresca or iced jasmine tea

Sugar, cold, and low alcohol are the fire code: sweetness tames capsaicin while acid resets the palate; tannin would fan the flames.

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Film school

This dish, cooked on camera Search films of Pol Sambola The cuisine, deeper Technique films from the Sri Lankan kitchen