Polish · Starter
Półgęsek
- Advanced
- 45 min
- roughly 2 of 4 for cost
Leads with wood-smoke running underneath, aromatics blooming from the first bite, fading in warm spice.
Ingredients
- 2 goose breasts, skin on (about 900 g together)
- 23 g fine sea salt
- 2.3 g curing salt number 2 (nitrite and nitrate cure, sold as Prague powder number 2 or peklosol). Never Himalayan pink salt or any plain salt sold as pink
- 9 g caster sugar
- 6 g juniper berries, crushed
- 4 g black peppercorns, cracked
- 3 bay leaves, crumbled
- 4 cloves garlic, crushed
- 300 g alder or fruitwood chips
Equipment
Smoker
The skills inside
Low & slow smokingBrining & curingSteaming: basket, leaf and lidResting meat & slicing against the grain
The words inside
Pink Salt, Nitrite & Nitrate (The Science, Straight)
Allergen screen
None found among the 14 screened.
Screened for: gluten, dairy, egg, nuts, peanuts, fish, shellfish, molluscs, soy, sesame, celery, mustard, lupin, alcohol. Not screened: sulphites.
Screened by keyword from the ingredient list, not reviewed by a person; check every label for what the list cannot show.
Method
- Weigh the breasts and scale the cure to them: 2.5 percent sea salt, 0.25 percent curing salt number 2, 1 percent sugar. Weigh the curing salt on a scale that reads 0.01 g, because a kitchen scale reading in whole grams cannot weigh this and must not be used. Rub it all in, then add the juniper, pepper, bay and garlic.
- Box or bag them, refrigerate at 3C (37F), and turn them once a day for 7 days so the brine that forms bathes both faces.
- Rinse briefly, pat dry, and hang them on hooks in the fridge for 24 hours, until the surface is matte and dry to the back of a finger. Smoke will not stick to wet skin, it will only steam it. 600 min
- Cold smoke over alder at under 25C (77F) in three sessions of about 3 hours, resting the breasts uncovered in the fridge overnight between sessions, until they are the colour of strong tea. 180 min
- Hang at 12C to 14C (54F to 57F) at 70 percent to 80 percent relative humidity until each breast has lost 30 percent of the weight it went into the smoker at, 2 weeks to 3 weeks. If the surface hardens and the loss stalls, vacuum bag the breast, leave it a week in the fridge to equalise, then hang it again. Slice paper thin across the grain. Once it has lost 30 percent, wrap it and keep it below 4C (39F): it holds three months whole, and two weeks once cut. A cellar only counts if it truly holds 12C to 14C (54F to 57F).
How to tell it is going right
This dish has no standard of its own yet. It is judged on the techniques it exercises: checked at the pan, while there is still something to be done about it.
Low & slow smoking 12 recipes
- The smoke coming off is thin and blue, not white and rolling. White smoke is unburnt fuel and it deposits soot and acrid phenols; a fire drawing enough air to burn its own smoke is what perfumes rather than tars.
- The chamber held its temperature within a narrow band for the whole cook, adjusted with the air intake rather than by adding fuel in armfuls. A pit swinging fifty degrees cooks the outside twice and the middle once.
- The stall was expected and waited out or wrapped through deliberately, not chased with heat. A brisket that sits at 70C (158F) for three hours is losing exactly as much water as it needs to; the cook who turns the fire up renders it dry.
- Doneness was judged by feel and by probe, never by the clock: the probe slides in with no resistance anywhere, and the number that matters is the one where the collagen has gone, not a time per kilo.
- It rested long and warm, an hour or more, wrapped and out of any draught. Cut straight off the pit and the juice runs onto the board instead of staying in the slice.
Where it goes wrong The fire was fed for temperature rather than for combustion, so it smouldered: white smoke, a bitter deposit on the surface, and a swing in the chamber every time more fuel went on. Then the stall was read as a stall in progress rather than evaporation doing its work, the heat went up, and the meat finished dry with a hard grey band under the bark.
Resting meat & slicing against the grain 56 recipes
- It came off the heat BEFORE the target temperature, measured with a probe rather than by time, because carryover keeps driving the inside up after it is out.
- The probe went into the coldest likely part rather than the easiest one to reach: the reading that matters is the lowest one, not the first one.
- Rested for a time matched to its size, somewhere warm, and not cut into partway through to see how it is doing.
- The board is nearly dry when it is finally cut. A spreading pool means it was cut too early, and that liquid should have stayed inside.
- The grain was found and the knife went ACROSS it, so the fibres are cut short, and the blade was sharp enough that the slices hold together rather than tearing.
Where it goes wrong It was cut straight off the heat, usually because everything else was ready. The muscle is still contracted and the juice still driven to the centre, so it runs out onto the board; the meat is drier than it ever needed to be, and the flavour that left it is sitting in a puddle under the knife.
At the Table
- The Pour
- Champagne: when lost, bubbles
- Also Right
- Cru Beaujolais, lightly chilled
- From the Taps
- Pilsner
- Zero-Proof
- Sparkling water with citrus
The universal donors: acid, bubbles, and low tannin rescue nearly any plate: the sommelier’s honest safety net.
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