The World Table

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Caribbean · Main

Ropa Vieja

  • Intermediate
  • 3 h
  • roughly 3 of 4 for cost

briny · earthy · aromatic · bright Leads with a briny, maritime salinity, an earthy, grounding base, with a clean, bright snap.

Ingredients

  • 1kg flank steak
  • 2 onions, 2 bell peppers, sliced; 6 garlic cloves
  • 400g crushed tomatoes, 120ml dry white wine
  • 2 tsp cumin, 2 tsp oregano, 2 bay leaves
  • Pimento-stuffed olives + capers; white rice and black beans to serve

The skills inside

Frying the paste until the oil splitsKeeping the cooking liquid

Allergen screen

Found: alcohol

Screened for: gluten, dairy, egg, nuts, peanuts, fish, shellfish, molluscs, soy, sesame, celery, mustard, lupin, alcohol. Not screened: sulphites.

Screened by keyword from the ingredient list, not reviewed by a person; check every label for what the list cannot show.

Method

  1. Simmer flank with bay and half an onion until it surrenders, ~2 h. Shred into rags; keep the broth. 120 min
  2. Sofrito: slow-fry onions, peppers, garlic; add cumin and oregano.
  3. Wine, tomatoes, a ladle of broth; simmer 15 min. 15 min
  4. Fold in the shredded beef and olives; simmer until the 'old clothes' soak up the sauce.

How to tell it is going right

This dish has no standard of its own yet. It is judged on the techniques it exercises: checked at the pan, while there is still something to be done about it.

Keeping the cooking liquid 60 recipes

  • It was actually kept: the liquid went into a container rather than down the drain, and the volume saved is enough to be worth using.
  • It is clean: strained of solids and grit, and not clouded with the debris of whatever broke up in it.
  • It tastes of what it cooked and tastes concentrated rather than washed out, and it is not so salty or so bitter that the only honest use is the bin.
  • It was cooled quickly and stored cold, not left standing warm on the stove to be dealt with later.
  • Used, it does the job the dish gives it (carrying flavour into a sauce, loosening the dish, or setting when chilled) rather than merely adding water back.

Where it goes wrong The pot was left to cool slowly on the stove and only strained the next day, so it soured overnight: what should have been the best ingredient in the dish goes in the bin, and the recipe gets water instead.

Frying the paste until the oil splits 95 recipes

  • It is being fried, not simmered: the paste is in fat over live heat and moving, holding a steady sizzle throughout rather than bubbling as a wet mass.
  • The colour has deepened and darkened from raw to cooked, and the volume has visibly reduced and tightened.
  • The split, the signal the whole technique is named for, is unmistakable when it comes: clear fat separates out and pools at the edges and on the surface, and the paste pulls away from the pan floor in one mass.
  • The smell has turned from sharp and raw to round and fragrant, with no raw bite left from any of the aromatics that went into it.
  • Nothing has caught: no black specks through the paste, no bitterness, and a pan floor that is browned but not burnt.

Where it goes wrong It was taken off as soon as it smelled good, before the fat separated; the raw edge of the aromatics is still in it, and the finished dish tastes thin and sharp no matter how long it simmers afterwards.

At the Table

The Pour
Syrah (northern Rhône) or Nebbiolo
Also Right
The braising wine itself, better bottle
From the Taps
Belgian dubbel
Zero-Proof
Beet & blackcurrant shrub

Long-cooked beef trades bite for depth: savory, structured reds echo the pot; and pouring the braise’s own region is law.

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Film school

This dish, cooked on camera Search films of Ropa Vieja Search YouTube: Chris De La Rosa on Ropa Vieja A YouTube search for Chris De La Rosa and this dish. No affiliation.