The World Table

An interactive culinary compendium: recipes, lexicon and study

Virginia · Bread

Sally Lunn Bread

  • Intermediate
  • 3 h
  • roughly 2 of 4 for cost
  • Vegetarian

rich · nutty-toasted Leads with richness that coats and comforts, toasted, nutty warmth throughout.

Ingredients

  • 500g flour
  • 7g instant yeast
  • 50g sugar
  • 1.5 tsp salt
  • 240ml warm milk
  • 115g butter, softened
  • 3 eggs

The skills inside

Proofing: the rise before the ovenThe wobble & the skewer: testing a bake

Allergen screen

Found: gluten · dairy · egg

Screened for: gluten, dairy, egg, nuts, peanuts, fish, shellfish, molluscs, soy, sesame, celery, mustard, lupin, alcohol. Not screened: sulphites.

Screened by keyword from the ingredient list, not reviewed by a person; check every label for what the list cannot show.

Method

  1. Warm the milk and butter together until the butter melts; cool to lukewarm.
  2. Beat the eggs into the milk, then mix into the flour, yeast, sugar, and salt to a very soft, sticky batter-dough. Beat 5 min with a mixer. 5 min
  3. Cover and rise 90 min until doubled and bubbly. 90 min
  4. Beat it down, turn into a buttered tube pan, and rise 45 min more. 45 min
  5. Bake at 175C for 40-45 min until deep gold and hollow-sounding. Turn out and serve warm with butter. 45 min

How to tell it is going right

This dish has no standard of its own yet. It is judged on the techniques it exercises: checked at the pan, while there is still something to be done about it.

Proofing: the rise before the oven 78 recipes

  • Judged on volume against the container rather than on the clock: visibly grown, and grown by roughly the amount the recipe describes.
  • The poke test agrees: a floured fingertip pressed a centimetre in leaves a dent that springs back slowly and only part of the way. Straight back means it is not ready; no spring at all means it has gone.
  • The surface is domed, smooth, and slightly sheened: not cratered, wrinkled, or collapsed, and not skinned over and dry from proofing uncovered.
  • Handled, it feels alive and airy: light for its size, with bubbles visible under the skin.
  • It springs in the oven: the piece lifts in the first minutes and the scores open. A shape that does not move at all was proofed past its point before it went in.

Where it goes wrong It was proofed to the clock in a kitchen colder or warmer than the recipe assumed: overproofed, it collapses as the blade touches it and bakes flat and dense with a sour edge; underproofed, it tears at the side and bakes tight.

The wobble & the skewer: testing a bake 135 recipes

  • Tested at the true centre and the thickest point, not at the convenient edge: the edge is done long before the answer is.
  • The skewer comes out as the recipe describes, clean and dry or carrying the stated moist crumb, and it does the same on a second test in a different spot.
  • The wobble is read in motion: nudged, the centre moves as one set mass with a faint tremble, rather than a liquid ripple travelling across the surface.
  • The other signs agree with the test: risen and just shrinking from the sides, the top set and dry to a light touch with no wet gloss on it.
  • Pressed lightly at the middle it springs back and leaves no lasting dent.

Where it goes wrong It was judged on the clock and on how the edges looked, so a centre still liquid went to the rack and sank as it cooled, a dense wet seam under a perfectly browned top.

At the Table

The Pour
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Vermentino or dry Chenin
From the Taps
Saison
Zero-Proof
Sparkling water with citrus & herbs

The vegetable whisperers: peppery, high-acid whites that flatter greens, roots, and grains without bullying them.

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Film school

This dish, cooked on camera Search films of Sally Lunn Bread Search YouTube: J. Kenji López-Alt on Sally Lunn Bread A YouTube search for J. Kenji López-Alt and this dish. No affiliation.