Yemeni & the Gulf · Main
Saltah bil Hulba
- Advanced
- 45 min
- roughly 3 of 4 for cost
Leads with richness that coats and comforts, real fire that builds and stays.
Ingredients
- 30 g fenugreek seeds
- 500 g lamb shoulder or neck, in 3 cm pieces
- 3 tbsp samn (clarified butter)
- 1 large onion, diced
- 300 g tomatoes, grated
- 200 g waxy potatoes, in 2 cm dice
- 1 tbsp hawaij lil shorba
- 1 litre water
- 3 tbsp sahawiq hamra
- 20 g coriander leaf, chopped
- 2 tsp salt
Equipment
Grater / zester
The skills inside
Reducing a sauceSautéing & the shallow frySalted water & the float testKnife cuts: dice, julienne, bias
Allergen screen
Found: dairy
Screened for: gluten, dairy, egg, nuts, peanuts, fish, shellfish, molluscs, soy, sesame, celery, mustard, lupin, alcohol. Not screened: sulphites.
Screened by keyword from the ingredient list, not reviewed by a person; check every label for what the list cannot show.
Method
- Cover the fenugreek with cold water by 5 cm; after 8 hours pour off the yellow water, rinse the seeds and cover them again with fresh cold water for another 8 hours, until they are swollen and slippery. 480 min
- Drain, grind to a smooth paste with 3 tbsp cold water, then whip, adding cold water a spoonful at a time, until the paste has tripled and stands in a pale foam like whipped cream; fold in 1 tbsp of the sahawiq and chill.
- Brown the lamb in the samn in a heavy pot without crowding, until the pieces release from the base of their own accord, then add the onion and cook to soft gold, followed by the hawaij and grated tomato until the fat pools red at the edges.
- Add the water and salt and simmer covered until the meat pulls apart under a fork, dropping in the potato for the last 20 minutes, then boil hard and uncovered until the stew coats a spoon. 20 min
- Heat a stone or unglazed clay madra in a 250C (480F) oven until it stings the air above it, ladle in the boiling stew so it keeps a rolling boil, spoon the hulba and the remaining sahawiq over the top with the coriander, and carry it to the table still erupting.
How to tell it is going right
This dish has no standard of its own yet. It is judged on the techniques it exercises: checked at the pan, while there is still something to be done about it.
Sautéing & the shallow fry 80 recipes
- Everything sits in a single layer with visible space between the pieces: nothing stacked, nothing touching, or the pan is too small for the quantity.
- The pieces move freely and keep moving, sliding across the pan rather than sticking and tearing when the pan is worked.
- Light even browning arrived at quickly: colour on most faces, not the deep crust of a sear and not grey.
- A thin film of fat with the food glossed by it: no pool left in the pan at the end, and nothing greasy on the fingers or the plate.
- Cooked through but still firm, having spent only a few minutes in the pan: anything that has gone soft has been in there too long.
Where it goes wrong Too much went in at once, the pan cooled, and the food released its water: what was meant to brown in three minutes stews for ten and comes out grey, slack and wet.
Reducing a sauce 95 recipes
- A steady simmer with the surface moving, never a rolling boil that throws it up the sides and scorches what is left on the base.
- Judged by behaviour rather than the clock: it coats the back of a spoon and holds a clean line when a finger is drawn through it.
- The drop in volume is visible against the side of the pan: there is a line to see, not a guess about whether anything has happened.
- Seasoned at the end and not the beginning, because salt concentrates at exactly the rate everything else does.
- Nothing is catching underneath: a spoon drawn across the base comes up clean, with no browned film building where the heat is fiercest.
Where it goes wrong It was seasoned at the start and then reduced by half. The salt concentrated along with everything else, so the sauce reaches perfect body and is too salty to serve. And the only remedy is to dilute it and reduce it all over again.
At the Table
- The Pour
- Off-dry Riesling (Mosel Kabinett)
- Also Right
- Gewürztraminer or off-dry Chenin
- From the Taps
- Crisp lager or pilsner
- Zero-Proof
- Agua fresca or iced jasmine tea
Sugar, cold, and low alcohol are the fire code: sweetness tames capsaicin while acid resets the palate; tannin would fan the flames.
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