The World Table

An interactive culinary compendium: recipes, lexicon and study

Burmese · Dessert

Sanwin Makin

  • Intermediate
  • 35 min
  • roughly 1 of 4 for cost
  • Vegetarian

rich · sweet-edged · charred Leads with richness that coats and comforts, a sweet edge rounding the corners, with a bitter-edged char at the rim.

Ingredients

  • 250 g coarse semolina
  • 400 ml coconut milk
  • 250 ml water
  • 200 g palm sugar, chopped
  • 3 eggs, beaten
  • 80 g ghee
  • 3 g salt
  • 25 g white poppy seeds

The skills inside

Dry-pan toasting: spices, seeds and nutsThe wobble & the skewer: testing a bake

The words inside

Semolina

Allergen screen

Found: gluten · dairy · egg

Screened for: gluten, dairy, egg, nuts, peanuts, fish, shellfish, molluscs, soy, sesame, celery, mustard, lupin, alcohol. Not screened: sulphites.

Screened by keyword from the ingredient list, not reviewed by a person; check every label for what the list cannot show.

Method

  1. Dry toast the semolina in a wide pan over medium heat for about 8 minutes, until it smells of biscuit and has gone straw coloured; do not let it brown. 8 min
  2. Melt the palm sugar into the coconut milk, water and salt, then pour that onto the semolina off the heat, whisking as you go so no lumps set.
  3. Return it to medium heat and stir without stopping for about 15 minutes, until the mass pulls away from the pan in one lump and a spoon stands up in it. 15 min
  4. Slide the pan off the heat, beat in the ghee, and wait until the mixture has stopped steaming before working in the eggs a third at a time.
  5. Spread it 3 cm deep in a greased tin, scatter the poppy seeds, and bake at 190 C (375 F) until the top is mahogany, blistered and firm to a fingertip.

How to tell it is going right

This dish has no standard of its own yet. It is judged on the techniques it exercises: checked at the pan, while there is still something to be done about it.

Dry-pan toasting: spices, seeds and nuts 70 recipes

  • A single layer on dry metal with nothing added: no fat, and nothing else sharing the pan or the tray and competing for the heat.
  • It is kept moving: shaken, stirred, or turned. Anything left still scorches on the face touching the metal while the rest of it is barely warm.
  • It is judged by smell before sight: once it is fragrant there are seconds left, not minutes, and the nose reaches that point well before the colour does.
  • It leaves the pan the instant it is done, onto a cold surface. A hot pan keeps toasting whatever stays in it, and carryover here is the difference between done and ruined.
  • The colour is even and light rather than patchy, with nothing black at the edges: one scorched piece taints the whole quantity it is ground into.

Where it goes wrong It was left alone for a moment while something else was attended to. Dry heat has no margin: the pieces against the metal go from fragrant to acrid inside a minute, and the bitterness cannot be picked back out of a ground mixture.

The wobble & the skewer: testing a bake 135 recipes

  • Tested at the true centre and the thickest point, not at the convenient edge: the edge is done long before the answer is.
  • The skewer comes out as the recipe describes, clean and dry or carrying the stated moist crumb, and it does the same on a second test in a different spot.
  • The wobble is read in motion: nudged, the centre moves as one set mass with a faint tremble, rather than a liquid ripple travelling across the surface.
  • The other signs agree with the test: risen and just shrinking from the sides, the top set and dry to a light touch with no wet gloss on it.
  • Pressed lightly at the middle it springs back and leaves no lasting dent.

Where it goes wrong It was judged on the clock and on how the edges looked, so a centre still liquid went to the rack and sank as it cooled, a dense wet seam under a perfectly browned top.

At the Table

The Pour
Demi-sec Champagne
Also Right
Off-dry Chenin (Vouvray)
From the Taps
Fruited sour
Zero-Proof
Coconut water with lime

Tropical sweetness wants bubbles or Chenin’s honeyed acid: richness met with lift, not more weight.

Saved on this device and kept across visits: export from My Menu to move them.

Film school

This dish, cooked on camera Search films of Sanwin Makin The cuisine, deeper Technique films from the Burmese kitchen