The World Table

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Peruvian · Salad

Solterito Arequipeño

  • Easy
  • 25 min
  • roughly 2 of 4 for cost
  • Vegetarian

bright · briny · rich Leads with acid holding everything up to the light, a briny, maritime salinity, on a rich, rounded finish.

Ingredients

  • 2 cobs choclo, the big kernelled Andean corn
  • 250 g fresh broad beans (habas), podded
  • 200 g queso fresco, in 1 cm dice
  • 200 g ripe tomato, seeded and diced
  • half a red onion, in fine feathers
  • 1 rocoto, deveined and finely diced
  • 60 g black botija olives, torn off the stone
  • 45 ml red wine vinegar
  • 45 ml olive oil
  • 2 g dried oregano, crumbled between the palms
  • 5 g salt

The skills inside

Blanching & shockingKnife cuts: dice, julienne, bias

Allergen screen

Found: dairy

Screened for: gluten, dairy, egg, nuts, peanuts, fish, shellfish, molluscs, soy, sesame, celery, mustard, lupin, alcohol. Not screened: sulphites.

Screened by keyword from the ingredient list, not reviewed by a person; check every label for what the list cannot show.

Method

  1. Boil the choclo in unsalted water until a kernel is chalky tender but still snaps between the teeth, about 25 minutes; salt in the water toughens the skins. Cool, then cut the kernels off. 25 min
  2. Blanch the habas 3 minutes, chill them in ice water and pinch each one out of its grey second skin; they should come out bright green and yield with no chalk. 3 min
  3. Soak the onion feathers in ice water for 10 minutes, then drain and dry them hard. 10 min
  4. Toss everything except the cheese with the vinegar, oil, oregano and salt, then fold the queso fresco through last so the dice stay square.
  5. Rest 5 minutes and taste: the vinegar should sit behind the vegetables, and the rocoto should arrive as heat only after you swallow. 5 min

How to tell it is going right

This dish has no standard of its own yet. It is judged on the techniques it exercises: checked at the pan, while there is still something to be done about it.

Blanching & shocking 76 recipes

  • A large volume at a hard rolling boil, and enough of it that adding the food barely interrupts it; a pot that goes quiet has started stewing rather than blanching.
  • Timed rather than watched, and short. This is an interruption in the cooking of something, not the cooking of it.
  • The ice bath was made and standing beside the pot BEFORE anything went into the water, not started once the timer went off.
  • It went straight into the ice water, fully submerged, and stayed until cold at the centre: a piece still warm inside is still cooking, and the arrest has not happened yet.
  • Drained and dried afterwards rather than left sitting in water, so it does not carry that water into whatever it meets next.

Where it goes wrong The ice bath was not ready, so the food sat draining in a colander while its own residual heat carried on cooking it. By the time it cooled it was a stage past where it was pulled, and exact arrest is the entire reason for blanching rather than simply boiling.

Knife cuts: dice, julienne, bias 150 recipes

  • Take any three pieces from anywhere in the pile: they match closely enough in every dimension that you would have to measure them to argue otherwise.
  • The cut faces are flat and clean rather than ragged or crushed; leaves and herbs are cut through, not bruised, and the board carries no dark smear where they were.
  • The stated size is the actual size, held against a rule or a known reference rather than called about right.
  • Everything in the pile is the shape that was asked for: no wedges, no half pieces, and no offcuts swept in to avoid waste.
  • They cook evenly, which is the entire point: at the end of cooking nothing is still raw and nothing has collapsed.

Where it goes wrong The knife was dull, or the vegetable was never squared off first, so the pieces vary: the small ones are mush by the time the large ones are cooked, and the dish has two textures where it wanted one.

At the Table

The Pour
Chianti Classico or Barbera d’Alba
Also Right
Vermentino for the lighter plates
From the Taps
Italian pilsner
Zero-Proof
San Pellegrino Sanbittèr

Tomato’s acid demands equal acid: Italian reds evolved beside the sauce, and the regional pairing is the safest law in wine.

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Film school

This dish, cooked on camera Search films of Solterito Arequipeño The cuisine, deeper Technique films from the Peruvian kitchen