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Japanese · Breakfast

Tamagoyaki

  • Intermediate
  • 15 min
  • roughly 1 of 4 for cost
  • Vegetarian

umami-deep · sweet-edged Leads with savory depth stacked from the pantry’s bass notes, a sweet edge rounding the corners.

Ingredients

  • 4 eggs
  • 2 tbsp dashi (kombu dashi keeps it vegetarian)
  • 1 tsp each sugar, mirin, soy
  • Neutral oil

The skills inside

Dashi

Allergen screen

Found: gluten · egg · fish · soy · alcohol

Screened for: gluten, dairy, egg, nuts, peanuts, fish, shellfish, molluscs, soy, sesame, celery, mustard, lupin, alcohol. Not screened: sulphites.

Screened by keyword from the ingredient list, not reviewed by a person; check every label for what the list cannot show.

Method

  1. Whisk everything; strain for silkiness.
  2. Oil a pan (rectangular ideal); pour a thin layer, roll it to one end when barely set.
  3. Oil again, pour more egg, lifting the roll so it flows underneath; roll again.
  4. Repeat until used up; shape in a sushi mat if you have one, slice.

How to tell it is going right

This dish has no standard of its own yet. It is judged on the technique it exercises: checked at the pan, while there is still something to be done about it.

Dashi 29 recipes

  • It is clear enough to read the bottom of the pan through it. Cloudiness means it boiled, or the kombu stayed in past the first small bubbles, and neither can be strained out afterwards.
  • Pale gold rather than brown, nearer the colour of weak tea. A brown dashi has been cooked too hard or too long and will taste of the pan rather than of the sea.
  • The kombu came out before the water reached a simmer, and it is supple rather than slimy. A slippery surface on the sheet means alginates have started to leach, and the broth will feel viscous on the tongue.
  • Strained without pressing. Squeezing the flakes or the kelp forces out bitterness and fine particles, and the difference is obvious in the finished bowl.
  • Tasted alone it is savoury and faintly sweet with no fishiness and no bitter edge. Fishy means the katsuobushi steeped rather than settling; bitter means heat.

Where it goes wrong Heat, or time, or both. Kombu boiled gives up alginates and turns the broth slippery and faintly bitter; katsuobushi left to steep turns it sour and fishy. Almost every dashi failure is an excess of one of the two things the cook controls, and neither is recoverable once it has happened.

At the Table

The Pour
Mimosa (weekends only)
Also Right
Cava, straight
From the Taps
-
Zero-Proof
Fresh orange juice & café au lait

Morning food wants brightness and bubbles, or honest coffee: nothing that argues before noon.

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Film school

This dish, cooked on camera Search films of Tamagoyaki Technique: DashiThe skill inside this recipeTechnique: CrêpesThe skill inside this recipe Search YouTube: Just One Cookbook on Tamagoyaki A YouTube search for Just One Cookbook and this dish. No affiliation.