Hungarian · Side
Tökfőzelék
- Easy
- 25 min
- roughly 2 of 4 for cost
- Vegetarian
Leads with richness that coats and comforts, acid holding everything up to the light, lifted green at the very end.
Ingredients
- 1 kg pale marrow squash, peeled, seeded and cut in long shreds
- 12 g fine salt
- 40 g butter
- 40 g plain flour
- 200 g tejföl (20 percent sour cream)
- 20 g dill, chopped
- 30 ml white wine vinegar
- 10 g caster sugar
- 5 g édesnemes paprika (noble sweet, ground)
- 150 ml water
The skills inside
Allergen screen
Found: gluten · dairy
Screened for: gluten, dairy, egg, nuts, peanuts, fish, shellfish, molluscs, soy, sesame, celery, mustard, lupin, alcohol. Not screened: sulphites.
Screened by keyword from the ingredient list, not reviewed by a person; check every label for what the list cannot show.
Method
- Toss the shredded marrow with the salt and leave it in a colander until it weeps and slumps to half its bulk, then squeeze it dry by the handful.
- Cook the butter and flour together, whisking, until the paste smells of biscuit and is the colour of straw, then take it off the heat and stir the paprika into the hot fat before any liquid.
- Whisk the cold water into the off-heat roux, then the sour cream, until the sauce is smooth and free of lumps.
- Fold in the squeezed marrow and the dill and simmer until the strands turn translucent and the sauce holds a spoon track.
- Finish with the vinegar and sugar, tasting until the sourness sits clearly ahead of the sweetness.
How to tell it is going right
This dish has no standard of its own yet. It is judged on the technique it exercises: checked at the pan, while there is still something to be done about it.
Making a roux 32 recipes
- Taken to the stage the dish named and no further, judged against that colour (pale, blond, or brown to brick), and it got there slowly enough to have coloured evenly.
- It is smooth and mobile: a paste with no dry pockets of flour and no lumps, loosening as it warms rather than sitting stiff in the pan.
- The raw-flour smell has gone and been replaced by the toasted, biscuity smell of its stage, with nothing acrid behind it.
- No black specks anywhere. One scorched fleck condemns the batch; it cannot be stirred back in and it will be tasted in the finished sauce.
- Let down into liquid it goes smooth without lumps and thickens to the body the dish wants, leaving no floury taste on the tongue.
Where it goes wrong The heat was too high and the corners of the pan went unstirred, so it scorched at the edge; black specks run through the finished sauce and carry a bitterness that no amount of seasoning covers.
At the Table
- The Pour
- Sauvignon Blanc (Sancerre)
- Also Right
- Grüner Veltliner
- From the Taps
- Berliner weisse
- Zero-Proof
- Cucumber-lime water
Green plates want green wines: vinaigrette’s acid meets its match, and the difficult vegetables surrender to Grüner.
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