The World Table

An interactive culinary compendium: recipes, lexicon and study

Massachusetts · Dessert

Toll House Chocolate Chip Cookies

  • Easy
  • 45 min
  • roughly 2 of 4 for cost
  • Vegetarian

rich · floral · sweet-edged · earthy Leads with richness that coats and comforts, a floral thread lifting the aroma, settling low and earthy.

Ingredients

  • 280g flour
  • 1 tsp baking soda
  • 1 tsp salt
  • 225g butter, softened
  • 150g granulated sugar
  • 165g brown sugar
  • 2 eggs
  • 2 tsp vanilla
  • 350g semisweet chocolate chips
  • 150g walnuts, chopped (optional)

Equipment

Sheet pan

The skills inside

Resting dough: the pause that does the workCreaming butter & sugarFolding: keeping the air in

Allergen screen

Found: gluten · dairy · egg · nuts

Screened for: gluten, dairy, egg, nuts, peanuts, fish, shellfish, molluscs, soy, sesame, celery, mustard, lupin, alcohol. Not screened: sulphites.

Screened by keyword from the ingredient list, not reviewed by a person; check every label for what the list cannot show.

Method

  1. Whisk flour, soda, and salt.
  2. Cream the butter with both sugars until light, 3 min, then beat in the eggs one at a time and the vanilla. 3 min
  3. Fold in the dry ingredients, then the chips and nuts.
  4. Rest the dough in the fridge at least an hour; overnight is better.
  5. Bake in spoonfuls at 190C for 9-11 min until set at the edges and still soft in the middle. Cool on the tray 5 min. 11 min

How to tell it is going right

This dish has no standard of its own yet. It is judged on the techniques it exercises: checked at the pan, while there is still something to be done about it.

Creaming butter & sugar 28 recipes

  • The butter started at the right temperature: it took a fingerprint and held its shape, neither greasy and slumping nor hard from the fridge.
  • It has visibly paled, from yellow towards near-white, and grown in volume, and getting there took minutes rather than seconds.
  • The texture is light and aerated: a spoonful is fluffy and holds a soft peak rather than sitting dense on the spoon.
  • Rubbed between finger and thumb it is still faintly gritty with undissolved sugar, and not slick or oily.
  • It is one homogeneous cream: not split, slackened, or separating into a greasy mass with liquid running out of it.

Where it goes wrong The butter was too warm, or it was beaten well past its point, so the fat softened and gave up the air it had taken: the mixture goes slack and oily and the cake bakes dense and greasy with a sunken middle.

Folding: keeping the air in 34 recipes

  • The air was actually built first and it shows: whatever was creamed or whipped has changed colour and grown in volume, pale and light rather than dense.
  • The two mixtures were brought closer before being combined: a little of the light one worked into the heavy one first, so the rest is not beaten flat trying to move it.
  • Folded and not stirred: a broad implement down through the middle, across the base, up and over, with the bowl turned between strokes.
  • Stopped the moment the streaks disappear. It is still visibly aerated and holds its shape briefly when the spoon lifts away.
  • Into the tin and into the oven straight away: a batter left standing on the bench gives back the air it was built for.

Where it goes wrong It was stirred until it looked perfectly smooth. Every stroke past the point where the streaks vanish knocks out air that cannot be put back, so the bake comes out dense and short of the tin, and often wet through the middle where there was no structure to hold it.

At the Table

The Pour
Banyuls or Ruby Port
Also Right
PX Sherry
From the Taps
Imperial stout
Zero-Proof
Espresso

Chocolate wants fortified sweetness or roast-bitter contrast: the wine must out-sweet the plate, or oppose it entirely.

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Film school

This dish, cooked on camera Search films of Toll House Chocolate Chip Cookies Search YouTube: J. Kenji López-Alt on Toll House Chocolate Chip Cookies A YouTube search for J. Kenji López-Alt and this dish. No affiliation.