The World Table

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Washington · Dessert

Washington Apple Cake

  • Intermediate
  • 80 min
  • roughly 2 of 4 for cost
  • Vegetarian

warm-spiced · sweet-edged · rich · earthy Leads with warm spice humming through the middle, a sweet edge rounding the corners, settling low and earthy.

Ingredients

  • 4 apples, peeled and diced
  • 250g flour
  • 1 tsp baking soda
  • 1 tsp cinnamon
  • 1/2 tsp nutmeg
  • 1/2 tsp salt
  • 2 eggs
  • 250g brown sugar
  • 180ml oil
  • 1 tsp vanilla
  • 100g walnuts, chopped
  • For the glaze: 115g butter, 150g brown sugar, 60ml cream

The skills inside

Folding: keeping the air inThe wobble & the skewer: testing a bake

Allergen screen

Found: gluten · dairy · egg · nuts

Screened for: gluten, dairy, egg, nuts, peanuts, fish, shellfish, molluscs, soy, sesame, celery, mustard, lupin, alcohol. Not screened: sulphites.

Screened by keyword from the ingredient list, not reviewed by a person; check every label for what the list cannot show.

Method

  1. Whisk the flour, soda, cinnamon, nutmeg, and salt.
  2. Beat the eggs, brown sugar, oil, and vanilla, then fold in the dry ingredients; the batter will be very thick.
  3. Fold in the diced apple and walnuts; the apples release the moisture that makes the batter come together.
  4. Bake in a lined pan at 175C for 50-60 min until a skewer comes clean. 60 min
  5. Simmer the glaze ingredients 5 min and pour over the warm cake. 5 min

How to tell it is going right

This dish has no standard of its own yet. It is judged on the techniques it exercises: checked at the pan, while there is still something to be done about it.

Folding: keeping the air in 34 recipes

  • The air was actually built first and it shows: whatever was creamed or whipped has changed colour and grown in volume, pale and light rather than dense.
  • The two mixtures were brought closer before being combined: a little of the light one worked into the heavy one first, so the rest is not beaten flat trying to move it.
  • Folded and not stirred: a broad implement down through the middle, across the base, up and over, with the bowl turned between strokes.
  • Stopped the moment the streaks disappear. It is still visibly aerated and holds its shape briefly when the spoon lifts away.
  • Into the tin and into the oven straight away: a batter left standing on the bench gives back the air it was built for.

Where it goes wrong It was stirred until it looked perfectly smooth. Every stroke past the point where the streaks vanish knocks out air that cannot be put back, so the bake comes out dense and short of the tin, and often wet through the middle where there was no structure to hold it.

The wobble & the skewer: testing a bake 135 recipes

  • Tested at the true centre and the thickest point, not at the convenient edge: the edge is done long before the answer is.
  • The skewer comes out as the recipe describes, clean and dry or carrying the stated moist crumb, and it does the same on a second test in a different spot.
  • The wobble is read in motion: nudged, the centre moves as one set mass with a faint tremble, rather than a liquid ripple travelling across the surface.
  • The other signs agree with the test: risen and just shrinking from the sides, the top set and dry to a light touch with no wet gloss on it.
  • Pressed lightly at the middle it springs back and leaves no lasting dent.

Where it goes wrong It was judged on the clock and on how the edges looked, so a centre still liquid went to the rack and sank as it cooled, a dense wet seam under a perfectly browned top.

At the Table

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The sweetness rule is absolute: the pour must be sweeter than the plate, and acid keeps it from cloying.

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Film school

This dish, cooked on camera Search films of Washington Apple Cake Search YouTube: J. Kenji López-Alt on Washington Apple Cake A YouTube search for J. Kenji López-Alt and this dish. No affiliation.