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Burmese · Main

Wet Tha See Byan

  • Intermediate
  • 40 min
  • roughly 3 of 4 for cost

aromatic · earthy · tangy-ferment · umami-deep Leads with aromatics blooming from the first bite, an earthy, grounding base, finishing long and savory.

Ingredients

  • 800 g pork belly, skin on, in 4 cm pieces
  • 250 g red shallots
  • 40 g garlic
  • 30 g fresh ginger
  • 200 ml peanut oil
  • 12 g mild dried red chilli powder
  • 5 g ground turmeric
  • 10 g ngapi, fermented fish paste
  • 30 ml fish sauce
  • 6 g salt
  • 300 ml water

The skills inside

FermentationThe wobble & the skewer: testing a bake

Allergen screen

Found: nuts · peanuts · fish

Screened for: gluten, dairy, egg, nuts, peanuts, fish, shellfish, molluscs, soy, sesame, celery, mustard, lupin, alcohol. Not screened: sulphites.

Screened by keyword from the ingredient list, not reviewed by a person; check every label for what the list cannot show.

Method

  1. Blend shallots, garlic and ginger with 50 ml water to a smooth paste with no visible shreds.
  2. Heat the oil until a drop of paste sizzles at once, take the pot off the flame, stir in turmeric and chilli for five seconds so they bloom without scorching, then add the paste.
  3. Fry on medium for 20 to 25 minutes, scraping the base: the paste goes from pale and loose to brick red and thick, pulls away in one mass, and oil weeps out at the edges. 25 min
  4. Add pork, ngapi, fish sauce and salt, turn to coat every piece, then pour in water to sit just below the meat and simmer covered until a skewer meets no resistance.
  5. Take the lid off, raise the heat and cook down until the water has gone and a clear red oil floats a finger deep over the meat.

How to tell it is going right

This dish has no standard of its own yet. It is judged on the techniques it exercises: checked at the pan, while there is still something to be done about it.

Fermentation 53 recipes

  • Held somewhere with a steady temperature it can actually work at, chosen on purpose rather than wherever there happened to be room.
  • There is visible activity before it is called started: bubbles, rise, or movement in the liquid. A ferment showing nothing after its first hours is not slow, it is not going.
  • It smells clean: sour, yeasty, or alcoholic, with nothing putrid, and with nothing fuzzy or coloured growing where air meets it.
  • Everything is under the liquid or under a cover, as the method requires: nothing solid left sitting dry in the air to spoil while the rest works.
  • Judged by taste and behaviour and then STOPPED: chilled, baked, or refrigerated at the point wanted, rather than left running because the stated hours had not elapsed.

Where it goes wrong It was run on the clock in a kitchen colder or warmer than the recipe assumed. Fermentation is a rate and not a duration, so the same number of hours gives an under-developed ferment in a cold room and a slack, over-soured one in a warm one, and only tasting it would have said which.

The wobble & the skewer: testing a bake 135 recipes

  • Tested at the true centre and the thickest point, not at the convenient edge: the edge is done long before the answer is.
  • The skewer comes out as the recipe describes, clean and dry or carrying the stated moist crumb, and it does the same on a second test in a different spot.
  • The wobble is read in motion: nudged, the centre moves as one set mass with a faint tremble, rather than a liquid ripple travelling across the surface.
  • The other signs agree with the test: risen and just shrinking from the sides, the top set and dry to a light touch with no wet gloss on it.
  • Pressed lightly at the middle it springs back and leaves no lasting dent.

Where it goes wrong It was judged on the clock and on how the edges looked, so a centre still liquid went to the rack and sank as it cooled, a dense wet seam under a perfectly browned top.

At the Table

The Pour
Vermentino or Sauvignon Blanc
Also Right
Albariño
From the Taps
Witbier
Zero-Proof
Sparkling water with citrus

Lean fish, bright acid, done: coastal whites built beside the same boats; the fresher the fish, the leaner the pour.

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Film school

This dish, cooked on camera Search films of Wet Tha See Byan Technique: Building an emulsionThe skill inside this recipeTechnique: FermentationThe skill inside this recipe The cuisine, deeper Technique films from the Burmese kitchen