The World Table

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Wyoming · Sauce

Wyoming Chokecherry Jelly

  • Intermediate
  • 2 h
  • roughly 1 of 4 for cost
  • Vegetarian
  • Vegan

bright Leads with acid holding everything up to the light.

Ingredients

  • 2kg chokecherries
  • 1L water
  • 1.5kg sugar
  • 1 packet pectin
  • 3 tbsp lemon juice

Equipment

Fine sieve

The skills inside

Salted water & the float testStraining & passing through a sieveSkimming: foam, fat and a clear brothMashing & puréeing

Allergen screen

None found among the 14 screened.

Screened for: gluten, dairy, egg, nuts, peanuts, fish, shellfish, molluscs, soy, sesame, celery, mustard, lupin, alcohol. Not screened: sulphites.

Screened by keyword from the ingredient list, not reviewed by a person; check every label for what the list cannot show.

Method

  1. Simmer the chokecherries in the water 20 min until soft, mashing as they cook. 20 min
  2. Strain through a jelly bag overnight without squeezing: squeezing clouds the jelly.
  3. Measure 1L of the clear juice into a pot with the lemon juice and pectin and bring to a hard boil.
  4. Add the sugar all at once and boil hard 1 minute, stirring. 1 min
  5. Skim the foam and jar immediately, sealing while hot.

How to tell it is going right

This dish has no standard of its own yet. It is judged on the techniques it exercises: checked at the pan, while there is still something to be done about it.

Skimming: foam, fat and a clear broth 73 recipes

  • It is held below a rolling boil for the whole time. Agitation drives fat and fine protein into the liquid as an emulsion, and nothing skimmed afterwards will take them back out.
  • The grey foam that rises in the first minutes is lifted off and discarded rather than stirred back in.
  • Fat is taken from the surface where it gathers, the pot moved off the centre of the heat if that is what it takes to collect it in one place.
  • The liquid is visibly clearer at the end than it was at the start: it is possible to see down into it.
  • Nothing lifted off goes back in. What was skimmed is discarded, not tipped back once the ladle is full.

Where it goes wrong The pot was allowed to boil, usually while something else was being attended to. Fat and protein emulsify into the liquid under agitation and cannot be lifted off afterwards, so the finished broth stays cloudy and greasy however patiently it is skimmed from then on.

Mashing & puréeing 114 recipes

  • Smooth to the degree the dish asks for, judged on the tongue rather than by eye: no lumps, no fibres, no grit, unless texture is the point.
  • No gluey elasticity: a spoonful drops cleanly off the spoon rather than stretching in a rope behind it.
  • The consistency holds: it mounds on a spoon and stays there, neither slumping flat nor standing so stiff that a spoon has to cut it.
  • Nothing separates on the plate: no water or fat weeping out into a ring within a minute of serving.
  • The colour is even throughout, with no streaks of unincorporated fat, liquid, or seasoning at the edges of the bowl.

Where it goes wrong A starchy ingredient met a high-speed blade, so the cells burst and released their starch: what should be light comes out as an elastic glue that lifts off the spoon in one mass.

At the Table

The Pour
Grüner Veltliner
Also Right
Vermentino or dry Chenin
From the Taps
Saison
Zero-Proof
Sparkling water with citrus & herbs

The vegetable whisperers: peppery, high-acid whites that flatter greens, roots, and grains without bullying them.

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Film school

This dish, cooked on camera Search films of Wyoming Chokecherry Jelly Search YouTube: J. Kenji López-Alt on Wyoming Chokecherry Jelly A YouTube search for J. Kenji López-Alt and this dish. No affiliation.