How to tell it is going right
- It is being fried, not simmered: the paste is in fat over live heat and moving, holding a steady sizzle throughout rather than bubbling as a wet mass.
- The colour has deepened and darkened from raw to cooked, and the volume has visibly reduced and tightened.
- The split, the signal the whole technique is named for, is unmistakable when it comes: clear fat separates out and pools at the edges and on the surface, and the paste pulls away from the pan floor in one mass.
- The smell has turned from sharp and raw to round and fragrant, with no raw bite left from any of the aromatics that went into it.
- Nothing has caught: no black specks through the paste, no bitterness, and a pan floor that is browned but not burnt.
Where it goes wrong It was taken off as soon as it smelled good, before the fat separated; the raw edge of the aromatics is still in it, and the finished dish tastes thin and sharp no matter how long it simmers afterwards.
Alsace & the North
Andalusia
- Andalusia
Rabo de Toro al Vino de Montilla
warm-spiced · gently hot · aromatic
Advanced 45 min plus overnight - Andalusia
Huevos a la Flamenca
smoky · aromatic · gently hot
Intermediate 30 min
Basque & Navarre
- Basque & Navarre
Marmitako de Bonito
umami-deep · herb-fresh · briny
Intermediate 35 min - Basque & Navarre
Gilda de Getaria
umami-deep · briny · bright
Easy 10 min
Bengali
- Bengali
Shorshe Ilish
gently hot · earthy · silky
Intermediate 30 min - Bengali
Rui Macher Jhol
earthy · gently hot · aromatic
Intermediate 35 min - Bengali
Aloo Posto
earthy · fiery
Easy 25 min Vegetarian - Bengali
Chingri Malai Curry
rich · warm-spiced · earthy
Intermediate 35 min
Breakfast Atlas
Burmese
- Burmese
Mohinga
aromatic · nutty-toasted · tangy-ferment
Advanced 60 min - Burmese
Chin Baung Kyaw
aromatic · gently hot · bright
Easy 15 min Vegetarian
Caribbean
- Caribbean
Curry Goat
earthy · aromatic · fiery
Intermediate 3 h plus overnight - Caribbean
Ropa Vieja
briny · earthy · aromatic
Intermediate 3 h
Catalonia
Chilean
Cuban
- Cuban
Sofrito Cubano
earthy · aromatic · warm-spiced
Easy 25 min Vegetarian - Cuban
Frijoles Negros Dormidos
bright · earthy · briny
Intermediate 30 min plus overnight Vegetarian - Cuban
Moros y Cristianos
briny · earthy · aromatic
Intermediate 30 min - Cuban
Tostones Rellenos
aromatic · smoky · bright
Advanced 45 min - Cuban
Picadillo a la Habanera
briny · bright · sweet-edged
Intermediate 35 min
Dominican
- Dominican
Pollo Guisado Dominicano
umami-deep · herb-fresh · briny
Intermediate 30 min - Dominican
Habichuelas Guisadas con Auyama
umami-deep · herb-fresh · rich
Easy 25 min Vegetarian
East African
- East African
Doro Wat
aromatic · warm-spiced · tangy-ferment
Advanced 2 h 30 m - East African
Mbuzi wa Kupaka
aromatic · bright · earthy
Intermediate 40 min
Egyptian
- Egyptian
Fatta bil Lahma
bright · warm-spiced · aromatic
Advanced 45 min - Egyptian
Dukkah
nutty-toasted · herb-fresh · earthy
Easy 20 min Vegetarian
Ethiopian
- Ethiopian
Chechebsa
warm-spiced · rich · sweet-edged
Easy 30 min Vegetarian - Ethiopian
Key Sega Wat
aromatic · warm-spiced · rich
Advanced 70 min
Florida
- Florida
Cuban Black Beans and Rice
bright · earthy · briny
Intermediate 2 h 30 m Vegetarian - Florida
Sofrito Shrimp Creole
briny · gently hot · earthy
Intermediate 50 min
Ghanaian
- Ghanaian
Nkatenkwan (Groundnut Soup)
aromatic · rich · fiery
Intermediate 35 min - Ghanaian
Red Red
umami-deep · smoky · gently hot
Intermediate 40 min Vegetarian - Ghanaian
Shito
aromatic · gently hot · umami-deep
Advanced 70 min
Haitian
- Haitian
Sos Ti Malis
aromatic · fiery · umami-deep
Easy 25 min Vegetarian - Haitian
Legim
umami-deep · fiery
Advanced 50 min
Indian
- Indian
Chana Masala
bright · aromatic · herb-fresh
Easy 40 min Vegetarian - Indian
Palak Paneer
rich · aromatic · gently hot
Intermediate 40 min Vegetarian
Indonesian
- Indonesian
Mie Goreng
aromatic · bright · gently hot
Easy 25 min - Indonesian
Sambal Terasi
aromatic · sweet-edged · fiery
Intermediate 25 min
Jiangnan
Kerala & the Malabar Coast
- Kerala & the Malabar Coast
Kottayam Meen Curry with Kudampuli
aromatic · bright · earthy
Intermediate 35 min - Kerala & the Malabar Coast
Beef Ularthiyathu
aromatic · warm-spiced · earthy
Advanced 45 min
Malaysian
- Malaysian
Nasi Lemak
gently hot · umami-deep · floral
Intermediate 60 min - Malaysian
Assam Laksa
aromatic · bright · umami-deep
Advanced 75 min - Malaysian
Sambal Udang
gently hot · bright · sweet-edged
Intermediate 40 min
Mexican
- Mexican
Chicken Tinga
smoky · aromatic · silky
Easy 45 min - Mexican
Enchiladas Verdes
briny · fiery · rich
Intermediate 60 min - Mexican
Pozole Rojo
gently hot · aromatic · bright
Intermediate 2 h 30 m
Nevada
Nigerian
- Nigerian
Obe Ata Din Din
fiery
Intermediate 45 min Vegetarian - Nigerian
Efo Riro
smoky · fiery · briny
Intermediate 35 min - Nigerian
Ayamase
fiery · smoky
Advanced 55 min
Noodle Atlas
- Noodle Atlas
Jajangmyeon
umami-deep · briny · rich
Intermediate 45 min - Noodle Atlas
Khao Soi Gai
rich · aromatic · gently hot
Intermediate 60 min
Northern Chinese
- Northern Chinese
Shanxi Dao Xiao Mian
aromatic · bright · fiery
Advanced 45 min Vegetarian - Northern Chinese
Lao Beijing Zhajiangmian
warm-spiced · aromatic · rich
Intermediate 40 min - Northern Chinese
Ziran Yangrou
earthy · aromatic · nutty-toasted
Easy 20 min
Oaxacan
- Oaxacan
Mole Amarillo con Chochoyotes
gently hot · rich · earthy
Intermediate 55 min - Oaxacan
Chileajo de Verduras
bright · warm-spiced · aromatic
Intermediate 40 min Vegetarian
Okinawa
Pacific Islands
Persian
Peruvian
- Peruvian
Seco de Cordero a la Norteña
earthy · aromatic · rich
Intermediate 40 min - Peruvian
Arroz con Pato a la Chiclayana
earthy · aromatic · sweet-edged
Intermediate 45 min
Peruvian Highlands
- Peruvian Highlands
Chairo
rich · herb-fresh · aromatic
Intermediate 40 min plus overnight - Peruvian Highlands
Olluquito con Charqui
aromatic · rich · warm-spiced
Intermediate 30 min
Pickle & Condiment Atlas
Puerto Rican
- Puerto Rican
Sofrito
herb-fresh · briny · aromatic
Easy 20 min Vegetarian - Puerto Rican
Arroz con Gandules
briny · tangy-ferment
Intermediate 30 min - Puerto Rican
Bacalaítos
aromatic · warm-spiced
Intermediate 25 min - Puerto Rican
Asopao de Pollo
briny · herb-fresh · earthy
Intermediate 40 min - Puerto Rican
Pasteles de Masa
sweet-edged · briny
Advanced 1 h 30 m
Romanian & Bulgarian
Seafood Atlas
Senegalese
- Senegalese
Thiébou Yapp
umami-deep · herb-fresh · aromatic
Advanced 55 min - Senegalese
Domoda
bright · umami-deep · rich
Intermediate 35 min
Sichuan
Soup & Stew Atlas
South African
Spanish
Stock & Fond Atlas
- Stock & Fond Atlas
Brown Veal Stock
umami-deep · rich · fiery
Advanced 60 min plus 8 to 12 hours - Stock & Fond Atlas
Prawn Head and Shell Stock
umami-deep · herb-fresh · bright
Intermediate 40 min
Tamil & the South
Thai
- Thai
Green Curry (Gaeng Keow Wan)
rich · herb-fresh · gently hot
Intermediate 35 min - Thai
Massaman Curry
warm-spiced · umami-deep · rich
Intermediate 2 h
The Rice Bowl
- The Rice Bowl
Paella Valenciana
floral · nutty-toasted · rich
Advanced 50 min - The Rice Bowl
Party Jollof Rice
fiery · umami-deep · smoky
Intermediate 40 min
The Saucier
Uzbek & the Silk Road
Venezuelan
West African
- West African
Jollof Rice
fiery · umami-deep · smoky
Intermediate 75 min Vegetarian - West African
Mafe
nutty-toasted · rich · fiery
Intermediate 1 h 40 m