The World Table

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Greek · Soup

Avgolemono

  • Intermediate
  • 40 min
  • roughly 1 of 4 for cost

bright · herb-fresh Leads with acid holding everything up to the light, fresh herbs arguing happily on top.

Ingredients

  • 1.5L good chicken stock
  • 100g orzo or rice
  • 2 cups shredded chicken
  • 3 eggs + juice of 2 lemons
  • Dill, pepper

The skills inside

The bare simmer: holding liquid below the boil

Allergen screen

Found: gluten · egg

Screened for: gluten, dairy, egg, nuts, peanuts, fish, shellfish, molluscs, soy, sesame, celery, mustard, lupin, alcohol. Not screened: sulphites.

Screened by keyword from the ingredient list, not reviewed by a person; check every label for what the list cannot show.

Method

  1. Cook orzo in the stock; add chicken.
  2. Whisk eggs and lemon until frothy.
  3. Temper: whisk hot broth into the eggs one ladle at a time, then pour back off the heat.
  4. Warm gently, never boil again, until it turns velvet.

How to tell it is going right

This dish has no standard of its own yet. It is judged on the technique it exercises: checked at the pan, while there is still something to be done about it.

The bare simmer: holding liquid below the boil 183 recipes

  • The surface is read rather than assumed: bubbles break slowly in one or two places, or the surface merely shivers, and it does not reach a rolling boil at any point.
  • It was held there: the pot was watched and the heat adjusted rather than set once and left, and there is no tide mark up the pot wall from a boil-over.
  • The liquid stayed as clear as it should be: no clouding from agitation, and no fat churned into an emulsion through it.
  • Whatever is in the liquid is still intact: nothing shredded, broken up, or worried apart by movement.
  • The level is roughly where the elapsed time should have left it; a large drop is the evidence that it ran hotter than this while nobody was looking.

Where it goes wrong It was brought to a boil and then left on the same heat, so it churned for the whole cook: the liquid clouded, the fat emulsified into it, and the solids broke apart into the broth.

At the Table

The Pour
Pinot Noir or Gamay
Also Right
Chenin Blanc
From the Taps
Bière de garde
Zero-Proof
Verbena iced tea

Chicken is wine’s most agreeable partner. Match the SAUCE, not the bird: cream to oak, tomato to Sangiovese’s acid, herbs to Loire whites.

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Film school

This dish, cooked on camera Search films of Avgolemono Technique: Rolling dolmasThe skill inside this recipeTechnique: Tempering a custardThe skill inside this recipe Search YouTube: Akis Petretzikis on Avgolemono A YouTube search for Akis Petretzikis and this dish. No affiliation.