On the Path of Study: Semester 4: The Braise, Semester 6: Pastry Fundamentals
From the Lexicon, Poach, Simmer, Boil
Three temperatures pretending to be one method. POACH: 71–82°C, water barely shivering: eggs, fish, chicken breast, anything delicate that violent bubbles would shred. SIMMER: 85–95°C, lazy bubbles: stocks, braises, beans, sauces. BOIL: 100°C rolling: pasta, blanching, potatoes, and almost nothing made of protein. The most common home error is treating these as synonyms; the most common professional discipline is watching the bubbles, not the dial. Salt poaching liquids and courts-bouillons like they are the sauce, because for those minutes they are.
Read it in the Lexicon →How to tell it is going right
- The surface is read rather than assumed: bubbles break slowly in one or two places, or the surface merely shivers, and it does not reach a rolling boil at any point.
- It was held there: the pot was watched and the heat adjusted rather than set once and left, and there is no tide mark up the pot wall from a boil-over.
- The liquid stayed as clear as it should be: no clouding from agitation, and no fat churned into an emulsion through it.
- Whatever is in the liquid is still intact: nothing shredded, broken up, or worried apart by movement.
- The level is roughly where the elapsed time should have left it; a large drop is the evidence that it ran hotter than this while nobody was looking.
Where it goes wrong It was brought to a boil and then left on the same heat, so it churned for the whole cook: the liquid clouded, the fat emulsified into it, and the solids broke apart into the broth.
Alsace & the North
- Alsace & the North
Choucroute Garnie à l'Alsacienne
tangy-ferment · smoky · rich
Intermediate 45 min - Alsace & the North
Coq au Riesling
rich · aromatic · umami-deep
Intermediate 45 min - Alsace & the North
Carbonade Flamande
bright · rich · sweet-edged
Intermediate 40 min - Alsace & the North
Waterzooi de Poulet
rich · bright · herb-fresh
Intermediate 40 min
Andalusia
- Andalusia
Gazpachuelo Malagueño
briny · bright · herb-fresh
Intermediate 30 min - Andalusia
Rabo de Toro al Vino de Montilla
warm-spiced · gently hot · aromatic
Advanced 45 min plus overnight
Aotearoa & Maori
Argentine
- Argentine
Vitel Toné
briny · umami-deep · rich
Intermediate 2 h 30 m plus overnight - Argentine
Mate
clean · simple
Easy 15 min Vegetarian
Armenian
Australian
- Australian
Barramundi with Lemon Myrtle Butter
bright · rich · aromatic
Intermediate 20 min - Australian
Pavlova Roulade with Passionfruit Curd
rich · bright · silky
Intermediate 40 min Vegetarian - Australian
Golden Syrup Dumplings
rich · bright · sweet-edged
Easy 20 min Vegetarian - Australian
Kangaroo Tail Soup
umami-deep
Intermediate 40 min
Austrian
- Austrian
Tafelspitz
rich · charred · gently hot
Intermediate 3 h 30 m - Austrian
Semmelknödel
rich · herb-fresh · warm-spiced
Intermediate 45 min Vegetarian
Baltic
- Baltic
Cepelinai su Spirgučiais
rich · herb-fresh · smoky
Advanced 65 min - Baltic
Marineeritud Kõrvits
warm-spiced · bright · herb-fresh
Easy 25 min plus 3 days Vegetarian
Basque & Navarre
- Basque & Navarre
Bacalao al Pil Pil
aromatic · briny · silky
Advanced 40 min - Basque & Navarre
Txangurro a la Donostiarra
gently hot · rich · charred
Intermediate 45 min - Basque & Navarre
Marmitako de Bonito
umami-deep · herb-fresh · briny
Intermediate 35 min - Basque & Navarre
Piquillos Rellenos de Bacalao
warm-spiced · rich · aromatic
Intermediate 50 min - Basque & Navarre
Porrusalda
rich · briny · aromatic
Easy 20 min Vegetarian
Belgian
Brazilian
- Brazilian
Vaca Atolada
aromatic · gently hot · herb-fresh
Intermediate 35 min - Brazilian
Coxinha de Frango
rich · herb-fresh · earthy
Advanced 60 min
California
Canadian
- Canadian
Ragoût de Boulettes
warm-spiced · nutty-toasted · rich
Intermediate 45 min - Canadian
Soupe aux Pois Jaunes
rich · smoky · bright
Easy 25 min plus overnight - Canadian
Ketchup aux Fruits
warm-spiced · bright
Intermediate 40 min plus a month Vegetarian
Cantonese
Caribbean
Catalonia
Caucasus & Central Asian
Chilean
- Chilean
Pastel de Choclo
rich · sweet-edged · herb-fresh
Advanced 55 min - Chilean
Caldillo de Congrio
rich · gently hot · bright
Intermediate 40 min
Chinese
Colombian
- Colombian
Sancocho de Gallina
herb-fresh · earthy · aromatic
Intermediate 35 min - Colombian
Postre de Natas
sweet-edged · bright · warm-spiced
Intermediate 45 min plus 4 hours Vegetarian
Cuban
- Cuban
Frijoles Negros Dormidos
bright · earthy · briny
Intermediate 30 min plus overnight Vegetarian
Czech & Slovak
- Czech & Slovak
Svíčková na Smetaně
rich · bright · earthy
Advanced 50 min - Czech & Slovak
Hovězí Guláš
rich · aromatic · warm-spiced
Intermediate 60 min - Czech & Slovak
Kulajda
bright · rich · herb-fresh
Intermediate 35 min Vegetarian
Danish
- Danish
Boller i Karry
rich
Intermediate 40 min - Danish
Rullepølse
rich · herb-fresh · warm-spiced
Advanced 45 min plus 3 days
Dessert Atlas
Dominican
- Dominican
Pollo Guisado Dominicano
umami-deep · herb-fresh · briny
Intermediate 30 min - Dominican
Majarete
warm-spiced · rich · floral
Intermediate 30 min Vegetarian - Dominican
Habichuelas con Dulce
rich · warm-spiced · silky
Intermediate 30 min Vegetarian
Dumpling Atlas
Eastern European
Egyptian
- Egyptian
Molokhia bi Taqliya
aromatic · bright · fiery
Intermediate 25 min - Egyptian
Fatta bil Lahma
bright · warm-spiced · aromatic
Advanced 45 min - Egyptian
Hamam Mahshi
warm-spiced · bright · smoky
Advanced 50 min
Emilia-Romagna
- Emilia-Romagna
Passatelli in Brodo
umami-deep · bright · warm-spiced
Easy 20 min - Emilia-Romagna
Lasagne Verdi alla Bolognese
rich · umami-deep · warm-spiced
Advanced 2 h - Emilia-Romagna
Gramigna alla Salsiccia
umami-deep · rich · bright
Easy 35 min
Emulsions & Pan Sauces
- Emulsions & Pan Sauces
Hollandaise, and the Two Ways It Splits
rich · gently hot · bright
Advanced 20 min Vegetarian - Emulsions & Pan Sauces
Beurre Blanc, the Cold Butter Mount
rich · bright · aromatic
Intermediate 20 min Vegetarian - Emulsions & Pan Sauces
Beurre Monté, Butter Held Liquid
rich
Easy 10 min Vegetarian
Ethiopian
- Ethiopian
Niter Kibbeh
rich · aromatic · warm-spiced
Intermediate 20 min Vegetarian - Ethiopian
Key Sega Wat
aromatic · warm-spiced · rich
Advanced 70 min
Finnish
French
- French
Rillons de Tours
rich · bright
Intermediate 30 min plus 12 hours - French
Blanquette de Veau à l'Ancienne
rich · bright · umami-deep
Intermediate 60 min - French
Lapin à la Moutarde
rich · herb-fresh · aromatic
Intermediate 35 min
Garde Manger
Georgian
German
- German
Königsberger Klopse
rich · umami-deep · briny
Intermediate 60 min - German
Rehrücken Baden-Baden
rich · bright · floral
Advanced 45 min
Ghanaian
Greek
Haitian
Holiday Feast Atlas
Hungarian
- Hungarian
Marhapörkölt
rich · aromatic · warm-spiced
Intermediate 35 min - Hungarian
Töltött káposzta
rich · smoky · tangy-ferment
Advanced 50 min
Indian
- Indian
Rasmalai
silky · bright · warm-spiced
Advanced 60 min plus 4 hours Vegetarian - Indian
Rogan Josh
warm-spiced · aromatic · smoky
Advanced 45 min - Indian
Bakri ke Paye
aromatic · rich · bright
Advanced 50 min plus 7 hours
Iraqi
- Iraqi
Dolma Iraqiyya
herb-fresh · umami-deep · bright
Advanced 75 min - Iraqi
Shalgham bil Dibis
earthy
Easy 15 min Vegetarian
Irish
Italian
- Italian
Cotechino con Lenticchie
warm-spiced · earthy · aromatic
Advanced 1 h 30 m plus 24 hours - Italian
Bollito Misto con Salsa Verde
briny · umami-deep · rich
Advanced 60 min
Jamaican
Japanese
- Japanese
Weeknight Shoyu Ramen
umami-deep · rich · sweet-edged
Intermediate 45 min - Japanese
Japanese Cotton Cheesecake
rich · bright
Advanced 40 min Vegetarian
Jiangnan
- Jiangnan
Hong Shao Rou
umami-deep · rich · sweet-edged
Intermediate 35 min - Jiangnan
Yangzhou Shizi Tou
aromatic · rich
Intermediate 40 min - Jiangnan
Zui Ji
aromatic
Intermediate 30 min plus 24 hours - Jiangnan
Yan Du Xian
rich · aromatic · silky
Easy 30 min
Kansai & Osaka
Kerala & the Malabar Coast
Kyoto & Kaiseki
- Kyoto & Kaiseki
Kumiage Yuba
umami-deep · fiery · silky
Intermediate 40 min Vegetarian - Kyoto & Kaiseki
Yuba Maki no Ankake
umami-deep · sweet-edged · aromatic
Intermediate 35 min Vegetarian - Kyoto & Kaiseki
Nishin Soba
umami-deep · sweet-edged · aromatic
Advanced 40 min
Levantine
Lyon & Burgundy
- Lyon & Burgundy
Saucisson de Lyon en Brioche
rich · fiery · nutty-toasted
Advanced 55 min plus overnight - Lyon & Burgundy
Salade Lyonnaise
bright · rich · aromatic
Intermediate 30 min - Lyon & Burgundy
Oeufs en Meurette
rich · aromatic · warm-spiced
Advanced 50 min - Lyon & Burgundy
Jambon Persillé de Bourgogne
herb-fresh · aromatic · bright
Intermediate 40 min plus overnight - Lyon & Burgundy
Poires à la Beaujolaise
warm-spiced · gently hot · bright
Easy 25 min plus overnight Vegetarian
Maine
- Maine
Maine Lobster Stew
rich
Intermediate 45 min plus overnight - Maine
Downeast Haddock Chowder
rich
Easy 45 min
Malaysian
- Malaysian
Curry Laksa
aromatic · bright · rich
Advanced 80 min - Malaysian
Hainanese Chicken Rice
aromatic · herb-fresh · floral
Intermediate 1 h 30 m
Maryland
Massachusetts
Mexican
Middle Eastern
Nigerian
Noodle Atlas
- Noodle Atlas
Taiwanese Beef Noodle Soup
herb-fresh · aromatic · warm-spiced
Advanced 3 h 30 m - Noodle Atlas
Kitsune Udon
umami-deep · sweet-edged · herb-fresh
Intermediate 50 min Vegetarian
North Carolina
Northern Chinese
- Northern Chinese
Lanzhou Lamian
aromatic · fiery · rich
Advanced 55 min - Northern Chinese
Rou Jia Mo
rich · sweet-edged · warm-spiced
Advanced 50 min
Norwegian & Icelandic
- Norwegian & Icelandic
Lutefisk
smoky · rich · bright
Advanced 30 min plus 4 to 6 days - Norwegian & Icelandic
Plokkfiskur
rich · earthy
Easy 25 min - Norwegian & Icelandic
Rømmegrøt
rich · warm-spiced · silky
Intermediate 30 min Vegetarian - Norwegian & Icelandic
Riskrem
rich · floral · bright
Intermediate 60 min Vegetarian
Offal & the Whole Animal
- Offal & the Whole Animal
Trippa alla Romana
bright · herb-fresh · umami-deep
Intermediate 40 min - Offal & the Whole Animal
Boudin Noir aux Pommes
rich · sweet-edged
Advanced 60 min - Offal & the Whole Animal
Lamb Brains with Black Butter
bright · rich · herb-fresh
Advanced 30 min
Okinawa
Pacific Islands
Pasta & Fresh Dough
- Pasta & Fresh Dough
Ravioli di Ricotta, the Seal
rich · warm-spiced
Advanced 60 min Vegetarian - Pasta & Fresh Dough
Gnocchi di Patate from Baked Potato
warm-spiced · rich
Intermediate 40 min Vegetarian - Pasta & Fresh Dough
Gluten-Free Egg Pasta with Psyllium
rich · briny
Intermediate 30 min Vegetarian
Pastry Foundations
Peruvian
Peruvian Highlands
Polish
Provence & the Midi
- Provence & the Midi
Soupe de Poissons de Roche
floral · aromatic · briny
Advanced 55 min - Provence & the Midi
Le Grand Aïoli
aromatic · rich · bright
Intermediate 45 min - Provence & the Midi
Daube Provençale
briny · rich · warm-spiced
Intermediate 40 min plus overnight
Puerto Rican
Romanian & Bulgarian
Russian & Ukrainian
- Russian & Ukrainian
Salat Olivier
herb-fresh · bright · briny
Easy 45 min - Russian & Ukrainian
Okroshka
herb-fresh
Easy 30 min
Scandinavian
Seafood Atlas
- Seafood Atlas
Proper Fish Pie
rich · smoky · bright
Intermediate 1 h 40 m - Seafood Atlas
Pescado a la Veracruzana
briny · bright · gently hot
Intermediate 50 min - Seafood Atlas
Kedgeree
smoky · rich · herb-fresh
Intermediate 50 min
Senegalese
Sichuan
- Sichuan
Shuizhu Niurou
aromatic · fiery · umami-deep
Advanced 40 min - Sichuan
Hui Guo Rou
aromatic · rich · fiery
Intermediate 25 min - Sichuan
Guaiwei Ji Si
nutty-toasted · aromatic · bright
Intermediate 30 min
Sicilian
Soup & Stew Atlas
- Soup & Stew Atlas
Birria de Res con Consomé
bright · rich · herb-fresh
Advanced 4 h 30 m plus overnight - Soup & Stew Atlas
Bouillabaisse
floral · aromatic · briny
Advanced 2 h - Soup & Stew Atlas
Cullen Skink
rich · smoky · herb-fresh
Easy 45 min
South African
- South African
Umngqusho
rich
Easy 20 min plus overnight Vegetarian - South African
Melktert
rich · warm-spiced · floral
Intermediate 40 min plus 4 hours Vegetarian
South American
- South American
Feijoada
smoky · rich · warm-spiced
Advanced 4 h - South American
Ají de Gallina
earthy · briny · nutty-toasted
Intermediate 70 min
Spanish
Sri Lankan
Stock & Fond Atlas
- Stock & Fond Atlas
Brown Veal Stock
umami-deep · rich · fiery
Advanced 60 min plus 8 to 12 hours - Stock & Fond Atlas
Chicken Consommé, Raft Method
gently hot · herb-fresh
Advanced 45 min
Tamil & the South
Thai
- Thai
Mango Sticky Rice
rich · nutty-toasted
Intermediate 60 min Vegetarian - Thai
Gaeng Phet Ped Yang
rich · umami-deep · sweet-edged
Intermediate 30 min
The Cure
The French Basque & Gascony
- The French Basque & Gascony
Axoa de Veau d'Espelette
aromatic · gently hot · warm-spiced
Intermediate 30 min - The French Basque & Gascony
Ttoro de Saint-Jean-de-Luz
briny · aromatic · nutty-toasted
Advanced 45 min
The Rice Bowl
- The Rice Bowl
Milanese Saffron Risotto
rich · floral · umami-deep
Advanced 35 min - The Rice Bowl
Paella Valenciana
floral · nutty-toasted · rich
Advanced 50 min
Trinidadian
Turkish
Uzbek & the Silk Road
Venezuelan
- Venezuelan
Arepa Reina Pepiada
bright
Intermediate 45 min - Venezuelan
Pabellón Criollo
umami-deep · earthy · aromatic
Advanced 55 min - Venezuelan
Asado Negro
sweet-edged · aromatic · umami-deep
Advanced 50 min - Venezuelan
Dulce de Lechosa
warm-spiced · bright
Intermediate 35 min Vegetarian
Vietnamese
- Vietnamese
Quick Pho Ga
herb-fresh · warm-spiced · aromatic
Intermediate 60 min - Vietnamese
Che Chuoi
rich · nutty-toasted · floral
Easy 25 min Vegetarian - Vietnamese
Bún Măng Vịt
aromatic · umami-deep · tangy-ferment
Intermediate 55 min