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Noodle Atlas · Soup

Taiwanese Beef Noodle Soup

  • Advanced
  • 3 h 30 m
  • roughly 3 of 4 for cost

herb-fresh · aromatic · warm-spiced · fiery Leads with fresh herbs arguing happily on top, aromatics blooming from the first bite, on a slow, honest burn.

Ingredients

  • 1kg beef shank and/or chuck in large chunks, blanched from cold water and rinsed, the clean-broth opening
  • The braise: 3 tbsp doubanjiang (fermented chili-bean paste, the soul), 2 tbsp soy + 1 tbsp dark soy, 1 tbsp sugar, 5 slices ginger, 6 garlic, 2 scallions, 1 tomato, star anise, cinnamon, bay, Sichuan peppercorns in a sachet
  • 1.5L water or light stock; splash of rice wine
  • 500g fresh wheat noodles, medium-thick and chewy
  • The service: blanched greens, suan cai (pickled mustard greens), chopped scallion, chili oil

The skills inside

FermentationBraisingThe bare simmer: holding liquid below the boilBlanching & shocking

The words inside

DoubanjiangMustard GreensShank, Oxtail & CheekFF&E, Smallwares & Opening Inventory

Allergen screen

Found: gluten · soy · mustard · alcohol

Screened for: gluten, dairy, egg, nuts, peanuts, fish, shellfish, molluscs, soy, sesame, celery, mustard, lupin, alcohol. Not screened: sulphites.

Screened by keyword from the ingredient list, not reviewed by a person; check every label for what the list cannot show.

Method

  1. Fry ginger, garlic, scallion in oil; add doubanjiang and fry until the oil turns brick red; tomato, sugar, soys.
  2. Beef in with water, wine, and the spice sachet; simmer at a whisper 2.5–3 h until the shank's tendon turns to amber glass. 180 min
  3. Remove the sachet; season the broth to a deep red-brown, savory-first, faintly sweet, gently numbing.
  4. Boil noodles fresh per bowl; ladle beef and broth over; top with greens, a spoon of suan cai, scallion. The suan cai is the counterpoint: salty-sour against the deep braise.

How to tell it is going right

This dish has no standard of its own yet. It is judged on the techniques it exercises: checked at the pan, while there is still something to be done about it.

Braising 39 recipes

  • The pieces went into the liquid already deep brown on their faces, and the pot floor gave up its fond to that liquid rather than keeping it.
  • The liquid comes partway up the pieces and stays there for the whole cook (not submerged, not run dry), and it never boils: the surface trembles and no more.
  • It went long enough for the collagen to convert: a fork twists in it with almost no resistance, and the piece still lifts out whole rather than falling into shreds.
  • The liquid has become a sauce: it has body, it coats the back of a spoon, and it tastes concentrated rather than thin and washed out.
  • The meat is moist and seasoned through to its centre, not dry fibres sitting inside a good sauce.

Where it goes wrong The oven or the burner ran too hot and the liquid boiled, so the fibres tightened and squeezed their moisture out: it shreds dry into a thin greasy liquid, and more time makes it worse rather than better.

Fermentation 53 recipes

  • Held somewhere with a steady temperature it can actually work at, chosen on purpose rather than wherever there happened to be room.
  • There is visible activity before it is called started: bubbles, rise, or movement in the liquid. A ferment showing nothing after its first hours is not slow, it is not going.
  • It smells clean: sour, yeasty, or alcoholic, with nothing putrid, and with nothing fuzzy or coloured growing where air meets it.
  • Everything is under the liquid or under a cover, as the method requires: nothing solid left sitting dry in the air to spoil while the rest works.
  • Judged by taste and behaviour and then STOPPED: chilled, baked, or refrigerated at the point wanted, rather than left running because the stated hours had not elapsed.

Where it goes wrong It was run on the clock in a kitchen colder or warmer than the recipe assumed. Fermentation is a rate and not a duration, so the same number of hours gives an under-developed ferment in a cold room and a slack, over-soured one in a warm one, and only tasting it would have said which.

At the Table

The Pour
Off-dry Riesling (Mosel Kabinett)
Also Right
Gewürztraminer or off-dry Chenin
From the Taps
Crisp lager or pilsner
Zero-Proof
Agua fresca or iced jasmine tea

Sugar, cold, and low alcohol are the fire code: sweetness tames capsaicin while acid resets the palate; tannin would fan the flames.

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Film school

This dish, cooked on camera Search films of Taiwanese Beef Noodle Soup Technique: FermentationThe skill inside this recipeTechnique: BraisingThe skill inside this recipe Search YouTube: Chinese Cooking Demystified on Taiwanese Beef Noodle Soup A YouTube search for Chinese Cooking Demystified and this dish. No affiliation.