Emilia-Romagna · Soup
Passatelli in Brodo
- Easy
- 20 min
- roughly 3 of 4 for cost
Leads with savory depth stacked from the pantry’s bass notes, acid holding everything up to the light, fading in warm spice.
Ingredients
- 150 g dry breadcrumb, ground fine from stale unsalted bread
- 150 g Parmigiano Reggiano, 30 month, grated fine
- 3 whole eggs
- half a nutmeg, grated
- zest of 1 unwaxed lemon
- 20 g farina 00, only if the dough is slack
- 1.5 litres capon and beef broth
- fine salt
Equipment
Grater / zester
The skills inside
The bare simmer: holding liquid below the boilSalted water & the float testResting dough: the pause that does the work
Allergen screen
Found: gluten · dairy · egg
Screened for: gluten, dairy, egg, nuts, peanuts, fish, shellfish, molluscs, soy, sesame, celery, mustard, lupin, alcohol. Not screened: sulphites.
Screened by keyword from the ingredient list, not reviewed by a person; check every label for what the list cannot show.
Method
- Rub the breadcrumb, Parmigiano, nutmeg and lemon zest together, then work the eggs in with your fingers until the mass is uniform and squeezes into a lump with no dry crumb left in the bowl.
- Wrap and rest 30 minutes so the crumb takes up the egg; the dough should now feel like firm putty and hold a ridge when pinched, not stick to the hand. 30 min
- Bring the broth to a bare tremble, press the dough through a passatelli iron or a ricer with 4 mm holes, and cut the strands off at 4 cm as they fall in.
- Cook until they float and the surface turns from matte to satiny, about 2 minutes, then ladle broth and passatelli together into warm bowls. 2 min
How to tell it is going right
This dish has no standard of its own yet. It is judged on the techniques it exercises: checked at the pan, while there is still something to be done about it.
Resting dough: the pause that does the work 71 recipes
- It actually rested, covered, for the time stated, not cut short because the rest of the schedule was tight.
- It rolls and shapes without fighting: it stays where it is put, and it does not spring back or shrink on the bench between passes.
- The surface is smooth and supple rather than dry, cracked, or skinned over.
- It is at the temperature the next step needs: cold where the fat must stay solid, cool and relaxed where it must be rolled thin.
- Baked, it holds the dimensions it was shaped to rather than shrinking back from the edges of the tin or the rim of the dish.
Where it goes wrong The rest was skipped or shortened, so the gluten was still tight: the dough fought the pin and sprang back thick and uneven, then shrank down the sides of the tin in the oven.
The bare simmer: holding liquid below the boil 183 recipes
- The surface is read rather than assumed: bubbles break slowly in one or two places, or the surface merely shivers, and it does not reach a rolling boil at any point.
- It was held there: the pot was watched and the heat adjusted rather than set once and left, and there is no tide mark up the pot wall from a boil-over.
- The liquid stayed as clear as it should be: no clouding from agitation, and no fat churned into an emulsion through it.
- Whatever is in the liquid is still intact: nothing shredded, broken up, or worried apart by movement.
- The level is roughly where the elapsed time should have left it; a large drop is the evidence that it ran hotter than this while nobody was looking.
Where it goes wrong It was brought to a boil and then left on the same heat, so it churned for the whole cook: the liquid clouded, the fat emulsified into it, and the solids broke apart into the broth.
At the Table
- The Pour
- Cabernet Sauvignon or Malbec
- Also Right
- Tempranillo (Rioja Reserva)
- From the Taps
- Amber ale
- Zero-Proof
- Sparkling water, make room
Tannin binds to seared protein and fat: each bite softens the wine, each sip resets the palate: the steakhouse equation.
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