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Senegalese · Main

Soupou Kandia

  • Advanced
  • 40 min
  • roughly 2 of 4 for cost

smoky · aromatic · fiery · warm-spiced Leads with wood-smoke running underneath, aromatics blooming from the first bite, fading in warm spice.

Ingredients

  • 600 g okra, topped and grated on the coarse side of a box grater
  • 150 ml red palm oil
  • 250 g dried smoked fish, soaked and flaked off the bone
  • 30 g yeet (fermented sea snail), rinsed and chopped
  • 500 g fresh grouper or hake steaks
  • 2 onions (300 g), finely chopped
  • 6 garlic cloves, crushed
  • 1 tbsp netetou, crushed
  • 1 scotch bonnet, left whole
  • 1.2 litres fish broth or water
  • 1 tbsp black pepper, coarsely ground
  • salt
  • white rice, to serve

Equipment

Grater / zester

The skills inside

FermentationSweating aromatics: soft, never brownedThe bare simmer: holding liquid below the boil

Allergen screen

Found: fish · shellfish · molluscs

Screened for: gluten, dairy, egg, nuts, peanuts, fish, shellfish, molluscs, soy, sesame, celery, mustard, lupin, alcohol. Not screened: sulphites.

Screened by keyword from the ingredient list, not reviewed by a person; check every label for what the list cannot show.

Method

  1. Warm the palm oil over medium heat until it turns from opaque to clear orange and smells nutty; do not let it smoke.
  2. Sweat the onion and garlic in the oil until soft, then add the smoked fish, yeet, netetou, pepper and the whole chilli and pour in the broth.
  3. Simmer twenty minutes, until the broth tastes deeply of the smoked fish, then taste for salt: the yeet and netetou have already salted it.
  4. Stir the grated okra in and hold the pot at a lazy blip with only occasional lifting strokes of the spoon, until the sauce turns glossy and ropes off the spoon.
  5. Slide the fresh fish in and poach without stirring until it flakes at the bone. Serve over white rice with lime on the side, not in the pot.

How to tell it is going right

This dish has no standard of its own yet. It is judged on the techniques it exercises: checked at the pan, while there is still something to be done about it.

Fermentation 53 recipes

  • Held somewhere with a steady temperature it can actually work at, chosen on purpose rather than wherever there happened to be room.
  • There is visible activity before it is called started: bubbles, rise, or movement in the liquid. A ferment showing nothing after its first hours is not slow, it is not going.
  • It smells clean: sour, yeasty, or alcoholic, with nothing putrid, and with nothing fuzzy or coloured growing where air meets it.
  • Everything is under the liquid or under a cover, as the method requires: nothing solid left sitting dry in the air to spoil while the rest works.
  • Judged by taste and behaviour and then STOPPED: chilled, baked, or refrigerated at the point wanted, rather than left running because the stated hours had not elapsed.

Where it goes wrong It was run on the clock in a kitchen colder or warmer than the recipe assumed. Fermentation is a rate and not a duration, so the same number of hours gives an under-developed ferment in a cold room and a slack, over-soured one in a warm one, and only tasting it would have said which.

The bare simmer: holding liquid below the boil 183 recipes

  • The surface is read rather than assumed: bubbles break slowly in one or two places, or the surface merely shivers, and it does not reach a rolling boil at any point.
  • It was held there: the pot was watched and the heat adjusted rather than set once and left, and there is no tide mark up the pot wall from a boil-over.
  • The liquid stayed as clear as it should be: no clouding from agitation, and no fat churned into an emulsion through it.
  • Whatever is in the liquid is still intact: nothing shredded, broken up, or worried apart by movement.
  • The level is roughly where the elapsed time should have left it; a large drop is the evidence that it ran hotter than this while nobody was looking.

Where it goes wrong It was brought to a boil and then left on the same heat, so it churned for the whole cook: the liquid clouded, the fat emulsified into it, and the solids broke apart into the broth.

At the Table

The Pour
Off-dry Riesling (Mosel Kabinett)
Also Right
Gewürztraminer or off-dry Chenin
From the Taps
Crisp lager or pilsner
Zero-Proof
Agua fresca or iced jasmine tea

Sugar, cold, and low alcohol are the fire code: sweetness tames capsaicin while acid resets the palate; tannin would fan the flames.

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Film school

This dish, cooked on camera Search films of Soupou Kandia Technique: FermentationThe skill inside this recipe The cuisine, deeper Technique films from the Senegalese kitchen