On the Path of Study: Semester 2: Stocks, Soups & the Simmer, Semester 3: The Sauté Station & Pan Sauces, Semester 4: The Braise
From the Lexicon, Sweat vs. Sauté vs. Sear
Three pan verbs distinguished by heat and intent. SWEAT: low heat, a little fat, often a lid or parchment; vegetables soften and release moisture WITHOUT color (the start of risotto, velouté, most braises where onion flavor should be sweet, not roasty). SAUTÉ: medium-high, food 'jumping' (sauter) in a wide pan: light browning, fast cooking, constant motion. SEAR: maximum heat, zero motion: deep crust, Maillard at full roar. Recipes say 'cook the onions' and mean one of three different flavors; knowing which one the dish needs is the difference between following recipes and cooking.
Read it in the Lexicon →How to tell it is going right
- No colour anywhere: tipped under the light the pieces are translucent to pale gold, with no tan edges, no brown tips, and no browned flecks suspended in the fat.
- The pan is quiet: a low steady hiss, not a crackle. A crackle means the moisture has gone and browning has already started.
- The largest piece pressed against the side of the pan collapses without resistance and with no crunch left at its centre.
- The fat is still clear and loose in the pan and the pan floor is clean: nothing caught, nothing browned on to deglaze, because there was never any fond to build.
- It tastes sweet and mild with no raw allium bite at the back of the throat, and none of the roasted sweetness that belongs to the next technique up the heat scale.
Where it goes wrong The heat was too high and nothing covered the pan, so the pieces took colour before they softened; the finished dish carries a roasty sweetness where it wanted a clean one, and the pieces are still firm at the centre under browned edges.
Alabama
- Alabama
Conecuh Sausage and White Beans
smoky · aromatic · rich
Intermediate 2 h 30 m - Alabama
Alabama Brunswick Stew
smoky · umami-deep · rich
Intermediate 2 h 30 m - Alabama
Alabama Cornbread Dressing
rich
Intermediate 1 h 30 m plus overnight
Alaska
- Alaska
Alaska Reindeer Sausage Skillet
rich
Easy 35 min - Alaska
Alaska Salmon Pirok
rich · bright · herb-fresh
Advanced 2 h 30 m - Alaska
Alaska Moose Stew
umami-deep · aromatic · warm-spiced
Intermediate 3 h 30 m
Alsace & the North
- Alsace & the North
Choucroute Garnie à l'Alsacienne
tangy-ferment · smoky · rich
Intermediate 45 min - Alsace & the North
Coq au Riesling
rich · aromatic · umami-deep
Intermediate 45 min - Alsace & the North
Waterzooi de Poulet
rich · bright · herb-fresh
Intermediate 40 min
American
- American
Braised Collard Greens
smoky · rich · bright
Easy 1 h 30 m - American
New England Clam Chowder
briny · rich
Intermediate 50 min
Andalusia
- Andalusia
Rabo de Toro al Vino de Montilla
warm-spiced · gently hot · aromatic
Advanced 45 min plus overnight - Andalusia
Riñones al Jerez
bright · herb-fresh · aromatic
Intermediate 25 min - Andalusia
Huevos a la Flamenca
smoky · aromatic · gently hot
Intermediate 30 min
Aotearoa & Maori
Arkansas
Australian
- Australian
Aussie Meat Pie
umami-deep · rich
Advanced 60 min plus overnight - Australian
Bush Tomato and Chilli Relish
gently hot · bright · sweet-edged
Easy 25 min Vegetarian
Austrian
Baltic
Basque & Navarre
- Basque & Navarre
Txangurro a la Donostiarra
gently hot · rich · charred
Intermediate 45 min - Basque & Navarre
Marmitako de Bonito
umami-deep · herb-fresh · briny
Intermediate 35 min - Basque & Navarre
Piquillos Rellenos de Bacalao
warm-spiced · rich · aromatic
Intermediate 50 min - Basque & Navarre
Porrusalda
rich · briny · aromatic
Easy 20 min Vegetarian
Brazilian
- Brazilian
Bobó de Camarão
rich · aromatic · silky
Intermediate 40 min - Brazilian
Vaca Atolada
aromatic · gently hot · herb-fresh
Intermediate 35 min - Brazilian
Farofa de Dendê
aromatic · smoky · rich
Easy 15 min Vegetarian
British
Cajun & Creole
- Cajun & Creole
Red Beans & Rice
smoky · rich · aromatic
Easy 3 h - Cajun & Creole
Shrimp Creole
umami-deep · aromatic · gently hot
Easy 45 min
California
Canadian
Catalonia
Chilean
- Chilean
Pastel de Choclo
rich · sweet-edged · herb-fresh
Advanced 55 min - Chilean
Porotos Granados
herb-fresh · earthy · aromatic
Intermediate 35 min Vegetarian
Colombian
Colorado
- Colorado
Colorado Green Chili
earthy · aromatic · fiery
Intermediate 2 h 30 m - Colorado
Colorado Elk Chili
gently hot · earthy · aromatic
Intermediate 2 h 30 m
Connecticut
Cuban
- Cuban
Sofrito Cubano
earthy · aromatic · warm-spiced
Easy 25 min Vegetarian - Cuban
Frijoles Negros Dormidos
bright · earthy · briny
Intermediate 30 min plus overnight Vegetarian - Cuban
Moros y Cristianos
briny · earthy · aromatic
Intermediate 30 min - Cuban
Tostones Rellenos
aromatic · smoky · bright
Advanced 45 min - Cuban
Picadillo a la Habanera
briny · bright · sweet-edged
Intermediate 35 min - Cuban
Arroz con Pollo a la Chorrera
earthy · briny · tangy-ferment
Intermediate 40 min
Czech & Slovak
Delaware
- Delaware
Snapper Soup
rich · umami-deep · bright
Advanced 3 h 30 m - Delaware
Sussex County Chicken and Corn
rich · herb-fresh · charred
Intermediate 75 min - Delaware
Delaware Succotash
rich · herb-fresh
Easy 30 min Vegetarian
Dominican
- Dominican
Mangú
bright · rich
Easy 20 min Vegetarian - Dominican
Molondrones Guisados
bright · umami-deep
Easy 25 min Vegetarian
Dumpling Atlas
- Dumpling Atlas
Pierogi z Kapustą i Grzybami
rich · earthy · tangy-ferment
Intermediate 65 min Vegetarian - Dumpling Atlas
Empanadas de Pino
rich · sweet-edged · earthy
Advanced 70 min plus overnight
East African
- East African
Shiro Wat
rich · gently hot · aromatic
Easy 30 min Vegetarian - East African
Gomen Wat
aromatic · warm-spiced · gently hot
Easy 40 min Vegetarian
Eastern European
- Eastern European
Gulyás
earthy · rich · aromatic
Intermediate 2 h 30 m - Eastern European
Bigos
umami-deep · warm-spiced · tangy-ferment
Intermediate 3 h
Emilia-Romagna
Emulsions & Pan Sauces
- Emulsions & Pan Sauces
Cream Reduction, the Sauce That May Boil
rich · bright · aromatic
Easy 15 min Vegetarian - Emulsions & Pan Sauces
Flambé Pan Sauce, Brandy and Green Peppercorn
rich · gently hot · aromatic
Advanced 20 min
Ethiopian
- Ethiopian
Atkilt Wat
aromatic · earthy · fiery
Easy 30 min Vegetarian - Ethiopian
Dulet
fiery · rich · sweet-edged
Advanced 35 min
Florida
Garde Manger
Georgia
- Georgia
Vidalia Onion Casserole
rich · umami-deep · warm-spiced
Easy 60 min Vegetarian - Georgia
Georgia Brunswick Stew
umami-deep · rich · bright
Intermediate 3 h - Georgia
Country Captain
nutty-toasted · herb-fresh · aromatic
Intermediate 75 min - Georgia
Savannah Crab Stew
rich · herb-fresh
Intermediate 50 min
Georgian
Greek
Haitian
- Haitian
Sos Ti Malis
aromatic · fiery · umami-deep
Easy 25 min Vegetarian - Haitian
Diri ak Djon Djon
umami-deep · fiery · warm-spiced
Intermediate 25 min Vegetarian
Hungarian
Idaho
- Idaho
Idaho Basque Croquetas
rich · warm-spiced · earthy
Advanced 3 h plus overnight - Idaho
Idaho Lentil Soup
earthy · bright · umami-deep
Easy 60 min Vegetarian - Idaho
Idaho Scalloped Potatoes
rich · warm-spiced · aromatic
Intermediate 1 h 30 m Vegetarian
Illinois
Indiana
- Indiana
Indiana Fried Chicken and Noodles
rich · herb-fresh
Intermediate 1 h 30 m - Indiana
Indiana Green Bean Casserole
umami-deep · rich
Easy 60 min Vegetarian
Iowa
- Iowa
Iowa Loose Meat Sandwich
bright
Easy 40 min - Iowa
Maid-Rite Style Tavern
umami-deep · herb-fresh
Easy 35 min
Iraqi
- Iraqi
Kubba Halab
warm-spiced · earthy · sweet-edged
Advanced 60 min - Iraqi
Margat Bamia
bright · warm-spiced · umami-deep
Intermediate 35 min
Irish
- Irish
Beef and Guinness Stew
sweet-edged · silky · charred
Intermediate 3 h - Irish
Seafood Chowder
smoky · rich · herb-fresh
Intermediate 50 min
Italian
- Italian
Ragù alla Bolognese
umami-deep · bright
Intermediate 3 h - Italian
Risotto alla Milanese
rich · umami-deep · floral
Intermediate 35 min Vegetarian - Italian
Pasta e Fagioli
umami-deep · rich · floral
Easy 45 min Vegetarian - Italian
Pappardelle al Ragù d'Anatra
floral · aromatic · umami-deep
Intermediate 50 min - Italian
Osso Buco alla Milanese
bright · rich · herb-fresh
Intermediate 45 min - Italian
Cotechino con Lenticchie
warm-spiced · earthy · aromatic
Advanced 1 h 30 m plus 24 hours - Italian
Pappardelle al Ragù di Cinghiale
gently hot · umami-deep · floral
Advanced 45 min plus overnight
Jamaican
Japanese
Kansas
- Kansas
Kansas Beef and Noodles
rich
Intermediate 2 h 30 m - Kansas
Kansas Prairie Chicken and Rice
umami-deep · herb-fresh
Intermediate 1 h 30 m
Kentucky
Kerala & the Malabar Coast
- Kerala & the Malabar Coast
Meen Moilee
aromatic · rich · earthy
Intermediate 30 min - Kerala & the Malabar Coast
Kottayam Meen Curry with Kudampuli
aromatic · bright · earthy
Intermediate 35 min - Kerala & the Malabar Coast
Nadan Vegetable Ishtu
aromatic · gently hot · rich
Intermediate 30 min Vegetarian
Levantine
- Levantine
Musakhan
bright · warm-spiced · sweet-edged
Intermediate 40 min - Levantine
Loubieh bi Zeit
briny · bright · aromatic
Easy 25 min Vegetarian
Lyon & Burgundy
- Lyon & Burgundy
Quenelles de Brochet, Sauce Nantua
rich · herb-fresh · aromatic
Advanced 80 min - Lyon & Burgundy
Oeufs en Meurette
rich · aromatic · warm-spiced
Advanced 50 min - Lyon & Burgundy
La Pochouse Verdunoise
rich · umami-deep · aromatic
Advanced 55 min
Maine
- Maine
Maine Lobster Stew
rich
Intermediate 45 min plus overnight - Maine
Downeast Haddock Chowder
rich
Easy 45 min
Maryland
- Maryland
Maryland Crab Soup
clean · simple
Intermediate 1 h 30 m - Maryland
Cream of Crab Soup
rich · herb-fresh · aromatic
Easy 40 min
Massachusetts
- Massachusetts
Boston Clam Chowder
briny · rich
Intermediate 60 min - Massachusetts
Yankee Pot Roast
umami-deep · earthy
Intermediate 4 h
Middle Eastern
Minnesota
Missouri
Montana
Moroccan
Nevada
- Nevada
Nevada Basque Lamb Shoulder
aromatic · bright
Intermediate 3 h 30 m - Nevada
Nevada Basque Chorizo and Beans
aromatic · rich · warm-spiced
Intermediate 2 h 30 m - Nevada
Nevada Beans and Linguica
aromatic · warm-spiced
Intermediate 2 h - Nevada
Nevada Chile Verde
bright · herb-fresh · earthy
Intermediate 2 h 30 m
New Hampshire
- New Hampshire
Cider-Braised Pork Shoulder
rich · sweet-edged
Intermediate 3 h 30 m - New Hampshire
North Country Corn Chowder
rich · herb-fresh
Easy 45 min - New Hampshire
White Mountain Venison Stew
umami-deep
Intermediate 3 h - New Hampshire
Farm Turkey Pot Pie
rich
Intermediate 1 h 30 m
New Mexico
- New Mexico
New Mexico Green Chile Stew
earthy · aromatic · fiery
Intermediate 2 h - New Mexico
New Mexico Posole
gently hot · bright · aromatic
Advanced 3 h 30 m - New Mexico
New Mexico Calabacitas
rich · aromatic · fiery
Easy 35 min Vegetarian
New Orleans
New York
Nigerian
North Carolina
North Dakota
- North Dakota
North Dakota Knoephla Soup
rich · herb-fresh
Intermediate 75 min - North Dakota
North Dakota Bison Pot Roast
umami-deep
Intermediate 4 h
Norwegian & Icelandic
Offal & the Whole Animal
- Offal & the Whole Animal
Trippa alla Romana
bright · herb-fresh · umami-deep
Intermediate 40 min - Offal & the Whole Animal
Calf's Liver, Onions and Sage
rich · bright · briny
Intermediate 35 min
Ohio
Oregon
Pacific Islands
Pennsylvania
Peruvian
- Peruvian
Papa a la Huancaína
rich · briny · aromatic
Intermediate 30 min Vegetarian - Peruvian
Carapulcra Limeña
warm-spiced · earthy · nutty-toasted
Advanced 40 min - Peruvian
Seco de Cordero a la Norteña
earthy · aromatic · rich
Intermediate 40 min
Peruvian Highlands
Polish
Provence & the Midi
- Provence & the Midi
Soupe de Poissons de Roche
floral · aromatic · briny
Advanced 55 min - Provence & the Midi
Tian de Courgettes au Riz
rich · herb-fresh · briny
Easy 25 min Vegetarian - Provence & the Midi
Pissaladière Niçoise
umami-deep · briny
Intermediate 45 min
Puerto Rican
Rhode Island
- Rhode Island
Rhode Island Clear Clam Chowder
briny · rich · herb-fresh
Easy 50 min - Rhode Island
Stuffies
rich · bright · herb-fresh
Intermediate 60 min - Rhode Island
Rhode Island Hot Wieners
earthy · warm-spiced · fiery
Intermediate 75 min
Romanian & Bulgarian
- Romanian & Bulgarian
Sarmale în Foi de Varză Murată
smoky · gently hot · rich
Intermediate 55 min - Romanian & Bulgarian
Lyutenitsa
bright · aromatic · charred
Intermediate 50 min Vegetarian
Russian & Ukrainian
Scandinavian
Seafood Atlas
- Seafood Atlas
Moules Frites
briny · rich · aromatic
Intermediate 60 min - Seafood Atlas
Garides Saganaki
briny · herb-fresh · aromatic
Easy 30 min
Senegalese
- Senegalese
Domoda
bright · umami-deep · rich
Intermediate 35 min - Senegalese
Soupou Kandia
smoky · aromatic · fiery
Advanced 40 min - Senegalese
Accara
fiery · umami-deep · bright
Advanced 35 min Vegetarian - Senegalese
Ndambé
bright · umami-deep · aromatic
Easy 25 min Vegetarian
Sicilian
- Sicilian
Pasta con le Sarde
briny · umami-deep · floral
Intermediate 45 min - Sicilian
Involtini di Pesce Spada
bright · briny · herb-fresh
Intermediate 40 min - Sicilian
Sfincione Palermitano
umami-deep · briny · rich
Intermediate 45 min plus overnight
Soup & Stew Atlas
- Soup & Stew Atlas
Bouillabaisse
floral · aromatic · briny
Advanced 2 h - Soup & Stew Atlas
Cullen Skink
rich · smoky · herb-fresh
Easy 45 min - Soup & Stew Atlas
Cioppino
briny · herb-fresh · tangy-ferment
Intermediate 75 min
South African
- South African
Bobotie
bright · rich · nutty-toasted
Intermediate 35 min - South African
Lam Potjiekos
rich · charred · umami-deep
Intermediate 30 min
South Carolina
- South Carolina
She-Crab Soup
rich · gently hot · umami-deep
Intermediate 50 min - South Carolina
Carolina Gold Rice Pilau
herb-fresh · gently hot
Intermediate 60 min - South Carolina
Bog-Style Chicken and Rice
smoky · herb-fresh · gently hot
Intermediate 1 h 30 m - South Carolina
Charleston Red Rice
umami-deep · smoky · gently hot
Intermediate 75 min
South Dakota
- South Dakota
South Dakota Bison Chili
gently hot · earthy · aromatic
Intermediate 2 h - South Dakota
South Dakota Corn and Wild Rice Casserole
rich · umami-deep
Intermediate 1 h 30 m Vegetarian
Stock & Fond Atlas
- Stock & Fond Atlas
Fumet de Poisson
umami-deep · rich · gently hot
Intermediate 35 min - Stock & Fond Atlas
Fond de Légumes
herb-fresh · gently hot · rich
Easy 30 min Vegetarian
Tennessee
Texas
The French Basque & Gascony
- The French Basque & Gascony
Piperade
briny · aromatic · warm-spiced
Easy 25 min Vegetarian - The French Basque & Gascony
Axoa de Veau d'Espelette
aromatic · gently hot · warm-spiced
Intermediate 30 min - The French Basque & Gascony
Ttoro de Saint-Jean-de-Luz
briny · aromatic · nutty-toasted
Advanced 45 min
The Saucier
Turkish
- Turkish
Mercimek Çorbası
earthy · rich · bright
Easy 35 min Vegetarian - Turkish
Menemen
rich · silky · gently hot
Easy 20 min Vegetarian
Utah
Venezuelan
Vermont
- Vermont
Vermont Cheddar Soup
rich · herb-fresh
Easy 45 min Vegetarian - Vermont
Chicken and Cheddar Pot Pie
umami-deep · rich
Intermediate 1 h 30 m
Virginia
Washington
- Washington
Penn Cove Mussels Steamed in Cider
briny · rich · aromatic
Easy 30 min - Washington
Washington Smoked Salmon Chowder
smoky · rich · bright
Intermediate 60 min
Wisconsin
Wyoming
- Wyoming
Wyoming Chuckwagon Beans
sweet-edged · gently hot · umami-deep
Intermediate 3 h 30 m - Wyoming
Wyoming Cowboy Stew
umami-deep · aromatic · warm-spiced
Intermediate 2 h 30 m - Wyoming
Wyoming Lamb Stew
floral · aromatic · warm-spiced
Intermediate 2 h 30 m