The World Table

An interactive culinary compendium: recipes, lexicon and study

Pennsylvania · Soup

Philadelphia Pepper Pot Soup

  • Advanced
  • 4 h
  • roughly 3 of 4 for cost

gently hot · warm-spiced · sweet-edged Leads with a warm current of chile, warm spice humming through the middle, trailing gentle sweetness.

Ingredients

  • 700g honeycomb tripe, cleaned
  • 1 veal or beef bone
  • 3L water
  • 2 onions, diced
  • 3 celery ribs, diced
  • 2 carrots, diced
  • 500g potatoes, cubed
  • 1 tbsp black peppercorns, cracked
  • 1 tsp allspice
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 1 tsp thyme
  • For the dumplings: 125g flour, 1 tsp baking powder, 1 egg, 60ml milk
  • Salt and cayenne

The skills inside

Sweating aromatics: soft, never brownedStraining & passing through a sieveSkimming: foam, fat and a clear broth

The words inside

Allspice

Allergen screen

Found: gluten · dairy · egg · celery

Screened for: gluten, dairy, egg, nuts, peanuts, fish, shellfish, molluscs, soy, sesame, celery, mustard, lupin, alcohol. Not screened: sulphites.

Screened by keyword from the ingredient list, not reviewed by a person; check every label for what the list cannot show.

Method

  1. Simmer the tripe with the bone and water 2.5 hours until tender, skimming. Lift the tripe out, cut into strips, and strain the broth. 300 min
  2. Sweat the onion, celery, and carrot, then add the broth, tripe, potatoes, cracked pepper, allspice, bay, and thyme.
  3. Simmer 45 min until everything is tender and the broth is fragrant with pepper. 45 min
  4. Mix the dumpling ingredients to a soft batter and drop small spoonfuls into the simmering pot; cover and cook 12 min. 12 min
  5. Season hard with salt and cayenne: this soup is named for its pepper and should sting a little.

How to tell it is going right

This dish has no standard of its own yet. It is judged on the techniques it exercises: checked at the pan, while there is still something to be done about it.

Skimming: foam, fat and a clear broth 73 recipes

  • It is held below a rolling boil for the whole time. Agitation drives fat and fine protein into the liquid as an emulsion, and nothing skimmed afterwards will take them back out.
  • The grey foam that rises in the first minutes is lifted off and discarded rather than stirred back in.
  • Fat is taken from the surface where it gathers, the pot moved off the centre of the heat if that is what it takes to collect it in one place.
  • The liquid is visibly clearer at the end than it was at the start: it is possible to see down into it.
  • Nothing lifted off goes back in. What was skimmed is discarded, not tipped back once the ladle is full.

Where it goes wrong The pot was allowed to boil, usually while something else was being attended to. Fat and protein emulsify into the liquid under agitation and cannot be lifted off afterwards, so the finished broth stays cloudy and greasy however patiently it is skimmed from then on.

Straining & passing through a sieve 148 recipes

  • Nothing solid got through: a finger drawn through what came out finds no fibre, seed, skin, curd, or grit.
  • Where the dish wants body it was worked through rather than left to drip, and the solids left in the mesh are spent and dry rather than still holding liquid worth having.
  • It is judged on the tongue rather than by eye: smooth, with no residual grain left behind after the mouthful has gone.
  • The mesh was fine enough for the job and held its shape, and nothing bypassed it by going over the rim.
  • The yield is close to what went in less the spent solids: not half of it abandoned in the sieve because it stopped running and nobody pushed.

Where it goes wrong It was pushed through a mesh too coarse for it, or the sieve was overloaded and slopped at the rim, so the fibres it was meant to remove are in the finished sauce and it reads grainy on the tongue.

At the Table

The Pour
Cabernet Sauvignon or Malbec
Also Right
Tempranillo (Rioja Reserva)
From the Taps
Amber ale
Zero-Proof
Sparkling water, make room

Tannin binds to seared protein and fat: each bite softens the wine, each sip resets the palate: the steakhouse equation.

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Film school

This dish, cooked on camera Search films of Philadelphia Pepper Pot Soup Search YouTube: J. Kenji López-Alt on Philadelphia Pepper Pot Soup A YouTube search for J. Kenji López-Alt and this dish. No affiliation.