The World Table

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Venezuelan · Main

Asado Negro

  • Advanced
  • 50 min
  • roughly 3 of 4 for cost

sweet-edged · aromatic · umami-deep · smoky Leads with a sweet edge rounding the corners, aromatics blooming from the first bite, on a drift of smoke.

Ingredients

  • 1.5 kg beef eye of round, in one piece, trimmed
  • 100 g papelón, grated, or dark muscovado sugar
  • 80 ml neutral oil
  • 2 onions, sliced
  • 1 leek, white part only, sliced
  • 6 ají dulce peppers, chopped, or 1 red pepper
  • 4 garlic cloves, crushed
  • 2 carrots, sliced
  • 300 g ripe tomatoes, grated
  • 250 ml dry red wine
  • 500 ml beef broth
  • 2 tsp Worcestershire sauce
  • 2 bay leaves
  • salt and black pepper

Equipment

Grater / zester

The skills inside

Asado fireSugar stages & caramelSweating aromatics: soft, never brownedThe bare simmer: holding liquid below the boilThe wobble & the skewer: testing a bake

Allergen screen

Found: fish · alcohol

Screened for: gluten, dairy, egg, nuts, peanuts, fish, shellfish, molluscs, soy, sesame, celery, mustard, lupin, alcohol. Not screened: sulphites.

Screened by keyword from the ingredient list, not reviewed by a person; check every label for what the list cannot show.

Method

  1. Season the beef heavily the night before with salt, pepper, garlic and Worcestershire, then wipe it bone dry before cooking, because any wetness makes molten caramel spit and seize.
  2. Melt the papelón in the oil in a heavy pot over medium heat and keep going past golden, past mahogany, until it smokes lightly and is the colour of strong black coffee, roughly 5 minutes; the smell turns from sweet to bitter and that is the signal. 5 min
  3. Lower the dry beef straight into the caramel, which halts it, and turn it every minute until every face is lacquered black, about 8 minutes. 8 min
  4. Lift the meat out, soften the onions, leek, ají dulce, garlic and carrot in the same pot, then add the tomato, wine, bay and broth and return the beef.
  5. Cover and hold at the barest simmer, turning the meat every 40 minutes, until a skewer slides through the centre with no grip, about 3 hours. 40 min
  6. Rest until cool enough to carve into 5 mm sheets without shredding, blend the sauce smooth, and reheat the slices in it.

How to tell it is going right

This dish has no standard of its own yet. It is judged on the techniques it exercises: checked at the pan, while there is still something to be done about it.

Sugar stages & caramel 53 recipes

  • Nothing is stirred once it is boiling, and any crystals clinging to the side of the pan are brushed down rather than left to fall in.
  • Judged by temperature or by a tested stage rather than by time: consecutive stages are a few degrees apart and look identical in the pan.
  • Colour is read off the heat and in good light, remembering that sugar keeps darkening after the flame is out.
  • Stopped decisively at the point wanted: off the heat and into the next liquid or onto a cold surface, rather than left to coast in a hot pan.
  • The result is clear and smooth rather than grainy, cloudy, or seized into a solid mass.

Where it goes wrong It was stirred after coming to the boil, or a stray crystal from the side of the pan fell back in. One crystal seeds the whole pan and the syrup turns grainy within seconds, and once sugar has crystallised the only cure is more water and starting the whole thing again.

The wobble & the skewer: testing a bake 135 recipes

  • Tested at the true centre and the thickest point, not at the convenient edge: the edge is done long before the answer is.
  • The skewer comes out as the recipe describes, clean and dry or carrying the stated moist crumb, and it does the same on a second test in a different spot.
  • The wobble is read in motion: nudged, the centre moves as one set mass with a faint tremble, rather than a liquid ripple travelling across the surface.
  • The other signs agree with the test: risen and just shrinking from the sides, the top set and dry to a light touch with no wet gloss on it.
  • Pressed lightly at the middle it springs back and leaves no lasting dent.

Where it goes wrong It was judged on the clock and on how the edges looked, so a centre still liquid went to the rack and sank as it cooled, a dense wet seam under a perfectly browned top.

At the Table

The Pour
Zinfandel (old-vine)
Also Right
Shiraz or Malbec
From the Taps
Smoked porter
Zero-Proof
Cherry cola, honestly

Barbecue’s sweet-smoke wants jammy fruit that shakes hands with the sauce; dry austere reds argue with sugar and lose.

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Film school

This dish, cooked on camera Search films of Asado Negro Technique: Asado fireThe skill inside this recipeTechnique: Sugar stages & caramelThe skill inside this recipe The cuisine, deeper Technique films from the Venezuelan kitchen