Levantine · Main
Musakhan
- Intermediate
- 40 min
- roughly 2 of 4 for cost
Leads with acid holding everything up to the light, warm spice humming through the middle, ending saline and clean.
Ingredients
- 1 chicken, about 1.6 kg, jointed into six
- 1 kg onions, sliced thin
- 180 ml extra virgin olive oil
- 40 g ground sumac
- 4 loaves khubz taboon or other thick flatbread
- 80 g pine nuts
- 5 g ground allspice
- 2 g ground cardamom
- 12 g fine salt
- 1 lemon
The skills inside
Roasting in a hot ovenSweating aromatics: soft, never brownedSautéing & the shallow fry
Allergen screen
Found: nuts
Screened for: gluten, dairy, egg, nuts, peanuts, fish, shellfish, molluscs, soy, sesame, celery, mustard, lupin, alcohol. Not screened: sulphites.
Screened by keyword from the ingredient list, not reviewed by a person; check every label for what the list cannot show.
Method
- Rub the chicken with half the sumac, the allspice, cardamom, salt and 60 ml of the oil, and leave it on the side while the oven comes up to 200C (400F).
- Sweat the onions in the remaining oil over low heat with a pinch of salt, covered, until they collapse into a soft pale sludge with no bite left, about 25 minutes; do not let them take colour. 25 min
- Pull the pan off the heat and stir in the rest of the sumac, so the onions turn purple brown and smell sharp.
- Roast the chicken skin side up on a rack for 35 to 40 minutes, until the skin is crisp and the juices at the thigh joint run clear; fry the pine nuts in a little oil to pale gold and lift them out at once. 40 min
- Spread the sumac onions thickly over the bread, sit the chicken and its roasting juices on top, scatter the pine nuts and squeeze over the lemon.
How to tell it is going right
This dish has no standard of its own yet. It is judged on the techniques it exercises: checked at the pan, while there is still something to be done about it.
Roasting in a hot oven 56 recipes
- The oven was fully up to heat before anything went in, given time beyond the indicator light rather than judged by it.
- Every piece has air around it. Nothing touches its neighbour and nothing is packed to the edge of the tray, because crowded food steams itself in its own moisture and never browns.
- Colour is even across the whole tray, the tray having been turned at least once: no pale row at the back and no dark row at the front.
- It came out BEFORE the target temperature, not at it. Carryover keeps driving the inside up by several degrees after it leaves the oven, and that rise is part of the cooking rather than an error in it.
- The temperature was read at the coldest part rather than the easiest one to reach, and read again after the rest.
Where it goes wrong The tray was crowded, or the oven was not truly up to heat. The food releases steam faster than a cool box can carry it away, so it sits pale and slack, and the extra minutes spent chasing colour take the inside well past where it should have stopped.
Sautéing & the shallow fry 80 recipes
- Everything sits in a single layer with visible space between the pieces: nothing stacked, nothing touching, or the pan is too small for the quantity.
- The pieces move freely and keep moving, sliding across the pan rather than sticking and tearing when the pan is worked.
- Light even browning arrived at quickly: colour on most faces, not the deep crust of a sear and not grey.
- A thin film of fat with the food glossed by it: no pool left in the pan at the end, and nothing greasy on the fingers or the plate.
- Cooked through but still firm, having spent only a few minutes in the pan: anything that has gone soft has been in there too long.
Where it goes wrong Too much went in at once, the pan cooled, and the food released its water: what was meant to brown in three minutes stews for ten and comes out grey, slack and wet.
At the Table
- The Pour
- Chardonnay (village Burgundy)
- Also Right
- Chianti or Barbera
- From the Taps
- Bière de garde
- Zero-Proof
- Verbena iced tea
Chicken is wine’s most agreeable partner. Match the SAUCE, not the bird: cream to oak, tomato to Sangiovese’s acid, herbs to Loire whites.
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