Czech & Slovak · Soup
Kulajda
- Intermediate
- 35 min
- roughly 2 of 4 for cost
- Vegetarian
Leads with acid holding everything up to the light, richness that coats and comforts, finishing long and savory.
Ingredients
- 500 g waxy potatoes, in 1 cm dice
- 200 g fresh mushrooms, sliced
- 1.2 litres water or mushroom stock
- 2 bay leaves
- 6 allspice berries
- 5 g caraway seed
- 300 ml soured cream
- 30 g plain flour
- 30 g dill fronds, chopped
- 30 ml white wine vinegar
- 10 g caster sugar
- 4 eggs
- 10 g salt and 2 g white pepper
The skills inside
Poaching eggsThe bare simmer: holding liquid below the boilKnife cuts: dice, julienne, bias
The words inside
Allergen screen
Found: gluten · dairy · egg
Screened for: gluten, dairy, egg, nuts, peanuts, fish, shellfish, molluscs, soy, sesame, celery, mustard, lupin, alcohol. Not screened: sulphites.
Screened by keyword from the ingredient list, not reviewed by a person; check every label for what the list cannot show.
Method
- Simmer the potato with the bay, allspice and caraway in the stock until the dice are tender but still hold square corners.
- Add the mushrooms and cook five minutes more, until they darken and sink.
- Whisk the flour into the cold soured cream until smooth, loosen it with a ladle of the hot broth, then stir it back and simmer five minutes so the flour loses its raw chalkiness.
- Poach the eggs separately in vinegared water and keep them warm; a soft yolk is the whole point of them.
- Off the boil, season with the vinegar, sugar, salt and most of the dill, tasting until it lands sour first and sweet second.
- Slide an egg into each bowl, ladle the soup around it and scatter the last of the dill.
How to tell it is going right
This dish has no standard of its own yet. It is judged on the techniques it exercises: checked at the pan, while there is still something to be done about it.
Knife cuts: dice, julienne, bias 150 recipes
- Take any three pieces from anywhere in the pile: they match closely enough in every dimension that you would have to measure them to argue otherwise.
- The cut faces are flat and clean rather than ragged or crushed; leaves and herbs are cut through, not bruised, and the board carries no dark smear where they were.
- The stated size is the actual size, held against a rule or a known reference rather than called about right.
- Everything in the pile is the shape that was asked for: no wedges, no half pieces, and no offcuts swept in to avoid waste.
- They cook evenly, which is the entire point: at the end of cooking nothing is still raw and nothing has collapsed.
Where it goes wrong The knife was dull, or the vegetable was never squared off first, so the pieces vary: the small ones are mush by the time the large ones are cooked, and the dish has two textures where it wanted one.
The bare simmer: holding liquid below the boil 183 recipes
- The surface is read rather than assumed: bubbles break slowly in one or two places, or the surface merely shivers, and it does not reach a rolling boil at any point.
- It was held there: the pot was watched and the heat adjusted rather than set once and left, and there is no tide mark up the pot wall from a boil-over.
- The liquid stayed as clear as it should be: no clouding from agitation, and no fat churned into an emulsion through it.
- Whatever is in the liquid is still intact: nothing shredded, broken up, or worried apart by movement.
- The level is roughly where the elapsed time should have left it; a large drop is the evidence that it ran hotter than this while nobody was looking.
Where it goes wrong It was brought to a boil and then left on the same heat, so it churned for the whole cook: the liquid clouded, the fat emulsified into it, and the solids broke apart into the broth.
At the Table
- The Pour
- Nebbiolo (Langhe) or aged Pinot Noir
- Also Right
- White Burgundy for cream-based versions
- From the Taps
- Dubbel
- Zero-Proof
- Roasted barley tea
Earth speaking to earth: forest-floor reds echo fungal depth; truffle and Nebbiolo literally share a hillside and a season.
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