The World Table

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Japanese · Soup

Weeknight Shoyu Ramen

  • Intermediate
  • 45 min
  • roughly 1 of 4 for cost

umami-deep · rich · sweet-edged · herb-fresh Leads with savory depth stacked from the pantry’s bass notes, richness that coats and comforts, lifted green at the very end.

Ingredients

  • 1.2L good chicken stock + 10cm kombu
  • Tare per bowl: 1.5 tbsp soy, 1 tsp mirin, ½ tsp sesame oil
  • Fresh ramen noodles
  • Soft egg (6.5 min), scallion, nori
  • Chashu or shredded rotisserie chicken

The skills inside

Ramen brothThe bare simmer: holding liquid below the boil

The words inside

Stocks: Blanc, Brun, Broth & DemiKombu

Allergen screen

Found: gluten · egg · soy · sesame · alcohol

Screened for: gluten, dairy, egg, nuts, peanuts, fish, shellfish, molluscs, soy, sesame, celery, mustard, lupin, alcohol. Not screened: sulphites.

Screened by keyword from the ingredient list, not reviewed by a person; check every label for what the list cannot show.

Method

  1. Steep kombu in stock 20 min at a bare simmer; season lightly. 20 min
  2. Mix tare in each bowl: the bowl seasons the soup, not the pot.
  3. Cook noodles separately; never in the broth.
  4. Assemble: tare, broth, noodles, toppings. Serve screaming hot.

How to tell it is going right

This dish has no standard of its own yet. It is judged on the technique it exercises: checked at the pan, while there is still something to be done about it.

The bare simmer: holding liquid below the boil 183 recipes

  • The surface is read rather than assumed: bubbles break slowly in one or two places, or the surface merely shivers, and it does not reach a rolling boil at any point.
  • It was held there: the pot was watched and the heat adjusted rather than set once and left, and there is no tide mark up the pot wall from a boil-over.
  • The liquid stayed as clear as it should be: no clouding from agitation, and no fat churned into an emulsion through it.
  • Whatever is in the liquid is still intact: nothing shredded, broken up, or worried apart by movement.
  • The level is roughly where the elapsed time should have left it; a large drop is the evidence that it ran hotter than this while nobody was looking.

Where it goes wrong It was brought to a boil and then left on the same heat, so it churned for the whole cook: the liquid clouded, the fat emulsified into it, and the solids broke apart into the broth.

At the Table

The Pour
Junmai or Ginjo sake
Also Right
Dry Riesling or Grüner Veltliner
From the Taps
Japanese rice lager
Zero-Proof
Cold green tea (sencha)

Umami bridges best with umami: sake’s amino depth shakes hands with dashi and soy where tannic wine would argue.

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Film school

This dish, cooked on camera Search films of Weeknight Shoyu Ramen Search YouTube: Just One Cookbook on Weeknight Shoyu Ramen A YouTube search for Just One Cookbook and this dish. No affiliation.